The charm of Capri was palpably present, despite the physical setting being the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. Michael Kors and his team masterfully orchestrated an ambiance reminiscent of the idyllic Italian island for the Spring/Summer 2024 collection, complete with a whitewashed boardwalk, fuchsia bougainvillea, and merciful weather during New York Fashion Week. Kors, still mourning the recent loss of his mother, was inspired by past summer trips and the concept of “barefoot glamour,” with iconic figures such as Jackie O, Jane Birkin, and Marisa Berenson populating his mood board.
For many, travel is a source of immense joy and a means of escape from the mundanity of everyday life. Michael Kors, the iconic American fashion designer, is no exception. In the lead-up to his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Kors reflected on the significance of travel and the memories of trips taken with his late mother, Joan. “With her passing, the trips we took together resonate even more for me,” he shared. This nostalgic reflection served as the foundation for a collection that celebrates the joy, romance, and escapism associated with holidays.
The working concept for the Spring/Summer 2024 collection was “barefoot glamour,”a theme evident in the carefully curated images on Kors’ mood board. Iconic photographs of Jackie O strolling barefoot down a Capri street, Jane Birkin donning a lace crop top, and Marisa Berenson dining al fresco in a gold-hardware embellished bikini set the tone for the collection. Additionally, a photograph of a young Michael Kors and his mother lounging poolside served as a poignant reminder of the personal significance behind the collection.
As the models strutted down the runway, it was clear that the late 1960s and early 1970s served as a significant source of inspiration. Key pieces included a lace dress with a modest keyhole neckline, reminiscent of Birkin’s daring original, and a faithfully reproduced lace crop top. Other nods to the era included empire waists, micro hem lengths, and the recurring motif of Berenson’s gold bikini hardware, showcased on the straps of a sleek black maillot. Paired with a gauzy skirt, the maillot transformed into an elegant dinner ensemble. Kors also recalled a memory of his mother wearing an elongated sweater to his bar mitzvah, a bold choice that inspired some of the pants-less looks in the collection.
The enduring appeal of the late ’60s and early ’70s fashion lies in the significant cultural shifts of the time. The rise of second-wave feminism and the availability of birth control pills empowered women with unprecedented sexual and financial freedoms. Kors, while yearning for escapism and aiming to create a feel-good collection, also acknowledged the poignancy of the current moment, as sexual and reproductive rights are under threat. The collection, therefore, served as both a tribute to a bygone era and a reflection on the ongoing struggle for women’s rights.
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©Photo: Michael Kors
