It was in the sumptuous salons of the Hôtel de ville that Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his Spring/Summer 2023 collection poetically destructured.
The 79-year-old Japanese designer’s hypnotic voice echoed from the soundtrack – which included an instrumental version of Lou Reed’s “Walk on the Wild Side” – as models slowly paraded his signature color: black.
This timeless color of the house dressed long silhouettes alternating between rigid fabrics and fluid materials, between geometric volumes evoking origami and destructured tailoring pieces. There were also intricate corsets made of elements enmeshed into each other like a textile 3D jigsaw and abstract, painterly prints in earthy colors that evoked Japanese calligraphy.
©Yohji Yamamoto