Tom Ford‘s menswear has always held a distinct allure, a potent blend of sharp tailoring and unapologetic glamour. But for Spring/Summer 2025, the brand takes a decisive step back into the spotlight with its first standalone menswear presentation under the creative direction of Peter Hawkings. This collection throws off any lingering shadows of playing second fiddle and confidently strides onto the runway, a full-fledged celebration of the charismatic Tom Ford man.
The inspiration for the collection is clear: think Riviera nights in the 1970s, where the likes of Mick Jagger and Alain Delon rubbed shoulders at opulent soirees. There’s a touch of glam rock swagger, evident in the fringed gemstone and sequin scarves and the loose-collared, pastel polo necks. Yet, this isn’t mere nostalgia. Ford injects a contemporary edge with fabrics that shimmer with gold and gemstones, exuding a sense of undeniable opulence.
Black, however, remains the undisputed king of this collection. It’s a collection for the nocturnal creatures, those who favor the energy of late nights and the allure of bottle service. A luxurious, drapey pearl-toned jacket with gold pinstripes and a subtle Lurex sheen sets the stage. A powdery pink silk mikado suit offers a surprisingly sophisticated backdrop for a look that’s both playful and impeccably tailored: black framed shades, a classic black tie, a gold-grommeted belt, and cracked black patent loafers with a hint of gold hardware.
Tom Ford isn’t afraid to push boundaries, though. A meticulously crafted ivory leather bomber jacket, with sleeves cuffed mid-forearm, allows a silken shirt in the same tone to peek through, while a gem-encrusted fringed scarf adds a touch of flamboyant movement. There’s a bold gold-tone leopard jacquard jacket for those who crave audacious prints, paired with a cheetah-pattern shirt in black and gold fil coupe and pants in shimmering French gold Lurex.
For the more whimsical man, a loose polo in a kaleidoscope of ditsy daisy prints offers a playful alternative. And for those with the confidence and physique to carry it off, a cavalry striped tuxedo in a creamy, apricot-tinged silk steals the show. Gem-toned pants with a luxurious, almost weathered velvet texture, reminiscent of antique upholstery, complete this statement-making ensemble.
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©Photo: Tom Ford