Under David Koma’s direction, the Blumarine Spring/Summer 2026 collection took a sharp step away from girlish nostalgia. The butterfly, a longstanding emblem of the house, reemerged with darker wings and a dangerous edge.
The designer embraced tension by setting soft lines against strict tailoring, delicate hues against sharp darkness, and reshaping romantic codes with gothic energy. This duality created a wardrobe that was both sensual and calculated, giving Blumarine a bold new voice.
Standout pieces included chiffon dresses with butterfly motifs distorted to resemble leopard markings and sleek blazers with sheer fabric flowing down the back. These details made Koma’s intent to elevate craftsmanship without losing drama clear.
Koma steered the label toward eveningwear, leaving nearly no daylight looks. His runway featured sheer gowns, fluid dresses, and precise tailoring softened by unexpected georgette panels. The collection was designed for glamour after dusk rather than casual wear.
Butterflies were not alone. Dragonflies appeared in prints, embroidery, and jewelry. Bejeweled crosses and crystal spiders added a gothic undertone. Nude, pink, and black tones dominated, punctuated by sudden jolts of acid green.
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The designer embraced tension by setting soft lines against strict tailoring, delicate hues against sharp darkness, and reshaping romantic codes with gothic energy. This duality created a wardrobe that was both sensual and calculated, giving Blumarine a bold new voice.
Standout pieces included chiffon dresses with butterfly motifs distorted to resemble leopard markings and sleek blazers with sheer fabric flowing down the back. These details made Koma’s intent to elevate craftsmanship without losing drama clear.