Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans Stainless Steel is just a visual provocation. By combining atomic layer deposition, hand-engraved white gold and photoluminescent ceramics, the young independent watchmaker transforms steel into a living surface that shifts from green to violet with light. Limited to just 60 pieces, this fully allocated edition explores the tension between traditional chronometry and radical modern aesthetics.
The chameleon effect: nobody asked for, but everyone wants
Brette spent two years discussing this color-shifting concept before anyone outside his workshop could see it. The technology behind these chromatic acrobatics comes from atomic layer deposition (ALD), which applies coatings at the atomic level. Originally developed for semiconductor manufacturing, ALD allows for precise control over thin films built one molecular layer at a time. When applied to watch components, the process creates interference colors that change based on the viewing angle.
The white gold dial receives the “Aurora Waves” treatment from artist Yasmina Anti, who hand-engraves thousands of concave gestures to create undulating surfaces. These recesses and peaks are then coated with ALD, producing a spectrum that moves across the dial like the northern lights in wearable form. This effect extends beyond the dial to the gold chatons, the minute track, and the stainless steel seconds hand. White gold wheels peek through the openworked sections, adding another layer to an already intricate design.
A dual personality after dark
Low-light legibility is addressed through photoluminescent materials that glow green when charged. Super-LumiNova phosphorescent pigments cover the hour markers, and HyCeram covers the hands and the brand’s signature dovetail joint on the case. Unlike standard luminous compounds, HyCeram embeds phosphorescent pigments into ceramic material. It appears violet during the day before shifting to green at night. The contrast between the watch’s iridescence during the day and its neon glow at night creates two distinct personalities.
Purple-blue accents on the screws securing the keyless works carry those violet tones into the openworked sections of the dial. These subtle details connect the front and back of the watch through color, rather than relying on symmetry or obvious visual cues.
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Movement architecture and finishing details
The SBCA caliber inside maintains the same architecture seen in previous Chronomètre Artisans releases. Two mainspring barrels provide 72 hours of power reserve, and an oversized balance wheel with variable inertia and adjustable weights beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The hairspring is shaped with a Breguet terminal curve, and a visible, S-shaped stop balance appears on the back.
The stainless steel bridges are coated in black PVD before their bevels are re-polished by hand, creating a contrast between the matte black surfaces and the bright, polished edges. White gold wheels sit beneath the dial, their silvery tone complementing the steel case. The winding click for the twin barrels has a purple ALD-coated section that mirrors the dial treatment when viewed from the back. Wolf’s teeth wheels and concave, mirror-polished screws continue the finishing themes established in earlier versions.
A bracelet still in the making
The watch comes with three straps at delivery: a rubber strap, a calfskin strap, and a stainless steel bracelet that required more than two and a half years of development. The bracelet contains 446 components, including 146 concave screws that echo the movement’s fasteners. The design features polished and satin-finished links, custom sizing, a comfort extension, and a double-blade clasp, but the bracelet won’t debut until Watches & Wonders 2026. Rather than delay the entire project, the brand decided to unveil the watch on December 19th, 2025, without its matching bracelet.
Scarcity, allocation and collector reality
Only sixty pieces of the Chronomètre Artisans Stainless Steel will be made and will be priced at CHF 81,000 (approximately $102,300) each. Before you reach for your phone, know that all 60 slots were allocated before the public announcement. Simon Brette operates on a model where orders begin during the early stages of the design process, meaning clients commit years before seeing the finished product. The next version will be made of platinum, so interested collectors should contact the brand sooner rather than later to join the list.
Earlier editions of the Chronomètre Artisans felt more versatile for daily wear. They were watches you could bring to corporate meetings or family gatherings without broadcasting your collector status. This steel version takes a different approach. Its color-shifting dial and photoluminescent accents make stronger visual statements that might not suit every occasion or wrist.
Simon Brette and the new language of independent watchmaking
Simon Brette founded his brand in 2021 after working at Chronode, MCT, and MB&F, where he contributed to movement development for various independent brands. His first watch, released in 2023, won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève prize for Horological Revelation that same year. The Chronomètre Artisans series balances contemporary design elements with traditional finishing techniques, creating watches that feel simultaneously forward-looking and rooted in historical practices.
The brand produces fewer than 99 pieces per edition, including all variants. Previous releases included titanium and rose gold versions, with only 50 rose gold pieces and 60 steel pieces manufactured. This limited production stems from the handwork required for finishing and decoration rather than from an attempt to create artificial scarcity. Components are individually shaped by hand to achieve proper contrast and surface texture.
Technical specifications overview
The case measures 42 mm in diameter and is made of 316L stainless steel. Water resistance has been improved over previous editions thanks to a redesigned crown. Sapphire subdials appear at certain positions on the face, adding transparency to the complex dial layout. The black PVD treatment on the bridges contrasts with the white gold wheels throughout the movement.
The enhanced water resistance stems from subtle crown modifications rather than a dramatic case redesign. Brette chose not to compromise the visual continuity between the case and the bracelet, even though it meant an extended development time for the bracelet components.
A watch that evolves with light
Looking at this watch is like experiencing different timepieces throughout the day. Morning light might emphasize green tones, while afternoon sunlight could make the dial appear violet. Artificial indoor lighting creates yet another appearance, and darkness transforms everything into glowing green outlines. This variability may appeal to collectors who appreciate watches that don’t remain visually static, but it may also seem gimmicky to those who prefer consistency.
The tension between modern surface treatments and classical finishing defines this edition more than any single technical feature. ALD coating is an example of cutting-edge materials science applied to centuries-old watchmaking traditions. Hand-engraving meets atomic-layer precision. Photoluminescent ceramics sit alongside mirror-polished bevels. Whether these contrasts complement or contradict each other depends entirely on what you value in haute horlogerie.