The Setchu Fall/Winter 2025 collection took center stage in Florence as designer Satoshi Kuwata presented his inaugural runway show under the grand arches of the Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze. Fashionistas were greeted with origami-folded papers placed on their seats, hinting at the intricate and transformative designs to come.
Kuwata, fresh from winning the LVMH Prize for Young Designers 2023, captivated the audience by seamlessly blending his Japanese heritage with Western sartorial elegance. The collection was a harmonious journey that combined the precision of Savile Row tailoring with the rich textile traditions of Kyoto, offering a refreshing take on menswear silhouettes with a multifunctional twist.
The show opened with reimagined morning suits, a nod to his collaboration with London tailor Davies & Sons. Models showed tartan trousers paired with pleated skirts, blurring gender norms and highlighting the versatility of traditional garments. Tails appeared later, ingeniously styled with hakama pants – traditional Japanese clothing that elegantly fuses the concept of skirt and trousers.
Kuwata’s talent for innovation was evident in garments that transformed before the eyes of the audience. Dresses doubled as capes, square jackets were wrapped into scarves or transformed into strapless dresses, and shirts featured hidden panels that could be adjusted to change their silhouette. This interactive approach invited wearers to engage with their garments, emphasizing personal expression and functionality.
One captivating piece was a peacoat with side slits worn over generously cut trousers, exuding both comfort and sophistication. A light blue shirt featured a side panel that, when tucked into the collar, created a refined bib. Camel knits with buttons at the front and along the sleeves added a tactile element to the collection. In particular, a boxy silk jacquard jacket featured intricate patterns inspired by classic Japanese tales, subtly weaving in themes of romantic intrigue.
The collection’s monochromatic tartan patterns paid homage to an era when information was delivered through black-and-white media – television, newspapers and printed books – that had the power to change lives. The motif also reflected Kuwata’s personal journey, recalling the first fabric he purchased as a child exploring the world of fashion.
Guests were treated to a deeper exploration of Kuwata’s artistry as they moved through the library’s vaulted halls after the show. Exhibits included foldable shoes, origami-inspired totes, deconstructed knitwear, and bracelets made from repurposed fishing tools, all set against textures reminiscent of tatami mats. Every element, down to the smallest mother-of-pearl button, showcased his meticulous attention to detail and relentless pursuit of innovation.
Looking ahead, Kuwata hinted at expanding his creative repertoire with a forthcoming fragrance made from rose petals and umeboshi plums. This personal touch harked back to his childhood, evoking memories of his mother’s nurturing care.
©Photo: Setchu