As Schiaparelli opens its first permanent store outside Paris, at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City, its creative director Daniel Roseberry wanted to bring the brand to a wider audience, not only dressing celebrities on red-carpet.
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This season, he was inspired by the woman behind the Maison, Elsa Schiaparelli. He asked the question – who was she at home, or on holiday? This collection offered a suggestion on one hand, there is Elsa in the city and on the other hand, there is Elsa on holiday. By extension, the lineup catered to the two faces of the Schiaparelli customer: the city-dweller and the holiday-maker.
The first one had an exaggerated wardrobe, surrealist jewellery, hard chic dresses, and oversized blazers with miniskirts. Sequins, floral prints, visible seams, and a ’70s mood were the designer’s daily bread. On the other hand, the holiday was an escape from the chaos of the city. It was the relief valve for knitted jumpsuits and multicoloured stripes, black silk dresses with a draped touch, viscose caftans, and impressive belts.
The silhouettes were toned down in comparison to Schiaparelli’s typically exaggerated manner, presenting wearable translations of the house’s haute couture offerings while accessories stayed on the more extravagant side.
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