Daniel Roseberry’s latest ready-to-wear collection for Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2025 reimagines power dressing through a lens of unapologetic femininity, trading structured corsetry for rugged Western motifs and Surrealist flourishes. Presented at the Paris Museum of Modern Art, the lineup fuses Texas bravado with Parisian sophistication, reflecting Roseberry’s interrogation of how women can reclaim traditionally masculine archetypes in a world liberated from the male gaze.
Leather dominates the collection, appearing in hand-tooled bags, fringed jackets and trousers with trompe l’oeil double waists. Shearling coats, oversized and deliberately raw, evoke untamed landscapes, while copper – replacing Roseberry’s signature gold – adds a burnished warmth to satin ribbon dresses and bugle-beaded pajama sets. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a black bow-leg pantsuit paired with stiletto ankle boots, a nod to equestrian elegance stripped of pretension.
While Schiaparelli’s couture arm has dominated headlines with showstoppers like Ariana Grande‘s Oscars gown, Fall/Winter 2025 prioritizes wearable rebellion. Oversized suit jackets with maxi shoulders and nipped-in waists nod to 1940s Hollywood masculinity, reworked with corset lacing as decorative trim. Roseberry’s “industrialized” couture techniques appear in sequined gold dresses and ribboned silhouettes, proving that fantasy can coexist with functionality.
Surrealist wit punctuates the collection: a belt buckle clasps the neckline of a black waistcoat, while a knuckleduster ring mimics gold-plated fingers. Acid-washed denim and velvet-knit dresses patterned to resemble snakeskin nod to Roseberry’s Texas upbringing without veering into costume. The designer’s shift toward ready-to-wear dovetails with Schiaparelli’s broader strategy to expand beyond couture, using accessible yet statement pieces like lightweight, less ornate jewelry.
Roseberry described the collection as a “tightrope between pushed and real” balancing runway daring with commercial appeal. The absence of overt corsetry signals a departure from historical constraints, focusing instead on garments that empower through ease rather than restriction. With its raw textures and reimagined Western tropes, Fall/Winter 2025 positions Schiaparelli not only as a guardian of surrealism, but as a pioneer of modern, self-defined femininity.
©Photo: Schiaparelli
