Inside the Pinault Collection, the atmosphere was heavy with intent as Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his latest vision for Saint Laurent Men’s Fall 2026 collection. Darkness served as the primary medium, with models moving across a chocolate brown carpet under light so dim that it suggested the end of a long, complicated day. This show moved away from the vibrant colors of previous seasons to embrace a more disciplined and mysterious aesthetic.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| 🏛️ Brand: Saint Laurent 🎬 Creative Director: Anthony Vaccarello 📍 Location: Bourse de Commerce, Paris (Pinault Collection) 📚 Literary Influence: Giovanni’s Room (1956) by James Baldwin 🖤 Color Palette: Predominantly black with minimal contrast ✂️ Silhouette: X-shaped tailoring, broad shoulders, defined waist 🧵 Materials: Wool crepe, grain de poudre, pinstripes, latex, patent leather 👞 Footwear: Square-toed shoes, thigh-high stretch patent boots 🎥 Cultural Angle: Fashion meets cinema and fluid masculinity |
A specific literary spark ignited this creative shift. Vaccarello spent his summer immersed in the pages of Baldwin’s 1956 novel Giovanni’s Room. The book explores the tension between public expectation and private longing – a theme that was directly translated into the construction of the garments. The clothing spoke of a man caught in a struggle between conservative tradition and an underlying sensuality that refused to be ignored.
The tailoring on display was a study in precision. Jackets featured an X-shaped silhouette, defined by broad shoulders and subtly suppressed waists. These substantial garments avoided the common pitfalls of modern oversized trends, never appearing bulky. From behind, the sharpness of the cut was even more evident, showcasing a level of technical skill few houses currently possess.
Texture provided the nuance that color usually provides. The collection used black wool crepe and grain de poudre, materials that absorb light and create depth. Upon closer inspection, patterns emerged from the darkness. Pinstripes, herringbone, and Prince of Wales checks were revealed only to those standing near enough to appreciate the details. This subtlety suggests a wearer who dresses for his own satisfaction rather than for the gaze of the crowd.
The lower half of the silhouette varied between full-legged trousers that pooled over gleaming, square-toed shoes, and leaner, more restrictive options. In a daring move, Vaccarello paired traditional topcoats and banker stripes with latex leggings and thigh-high patent leather boots. This combination reflects the toughness and elegance that he presented in his Spring 2026 womenswear collection. This juxtaposition served as a visual metaphor for the protagonist in Baldwin’s writing: a man trying to reconcile a respectable exterior with a provocative interior life.
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Accessories played a vital role in heightening the drama of the presentation. Wraparound sunglasses and furry scarves wound tightly up to the ears created an air of aloofness. Silk ascots peeked out from the collars of crisp shirts and scoop-neck sweaters, adding a touch of old-world dandyism to an otherwise modern wardrobe. A single saffron sweater was one of the few breaks in the dark palette and acted as a sudden jolt of energy in a collection defined by restraint.
The front row reflected the cultural significance of the brand. Connor Storrie, the star of the hit show Heated Rivalry, sat alongside regulars like Austin Butler. Their presence underscores how the house continues to attract individuals comfortable with a more fluid and expressive version of masculinity. Vaccarello is not merely designing clothes; he is crafting an identity that feels relevant to a generation that views traditional gender boundaries as optional.
Then there’s the matter of the silver screen. Vaccarello now oversees a company division dedicated to film production. Although he did not confirm a project, he mentioned that the person who recently acquired the rights to Baldwin’s novel was present. The clothing seen on the runway could easily serve as the wardrobe for a cinematic adaptation, bridging the gap between historical literature and contemporary style. This collection shows that a fashion house can draw inspiration from the past while remaining firmly rooted in the present.
