Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp returned to New York City, a place that has profoundly shaped his design ethos, with his RVDK Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Presented at St. Mark’s Church on the Bowery, van der Kemp delivered a powerful message of sustainability and a nostalgic nod to the city’s glamorous past. The collection served as a testament to his unique approach – upcycled couture – a concept he has championed for the past decade. Using salvaged materials and vintage finds, van der Kemp creates one-of-a-kind pieces that exude an elegance reminiscent of legendary Parisian couturiers such as Saint Laurent, Lacroix and Ungaro.
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van der Kemp’s time in New York in the 1990s, working alongside icons such as Bill Blass and Gene Pressman of Barneys, instilled in him a keen understanding of American style. This influence was evident throughout the collection, which seamlessly blends vintage charm with a modern sensibility. One standout piece, a bustier dress with a pleated detail at the waist, was reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty’s crown. Other notable ensembles included an intricately embellished bolero with gold-dipped ceramics, a coat with a medley of cheetah, zebra and peacock feather patterns, and an evening gown with a repurposed skirt reminiscent of a Fornasetti print.
The collection culminated in a patriotic finale, with each model wearing a pair of vintage jeans emblazoned with American flag patches. This symbolic gesture, a reprise of a design element from his collection during Barack Obama’s presidency, served as a poignant reminder of the power of voting and civic engagement. Van der Kemp’s return to New York with his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 collection was not only a celebration of his decade-long commitment to sustainable practices, but also a call to action for the fashion industry to embrace more responsible and ethical approaches.
©Photo: Ronald van der Kemp