Dutch designer Ronald van der Kemp returned to New York City, a place that has profoundly shaped his design ethos, with his RVDK Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Presented at St. Mark’s Church on the Bowery, van der Kemp delivered a powerful message of sustainability and a nostalgic nod to the city’s glamorous past. The collection served as a testament to his unique approach – upcycled couture – a concept he has championed for the past decade. Using salvaged materials and vintage finds, van der Kemp creates one-of-a-kind pieces that exude an elegance reminiscent of legendary Parisian couturiers such as Saint Laurent, Lacroix and Ungaro.
van der Kemp’s time in New York in the 1990s, working alongside icons such as Bill Blass and Gene Pressman of Barneys, instilled in him a keen understanding of American style. This influence was evident throughout the collection, which seamlessly blends vintage charm with a modern sensibility. One standout piece, a bustier dress with a pleated detail at the waist, was reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty’s crown. Other notable ensembles included an intricately embellished bolero with gold-dipped ceramics, a coat with a medley of cheetah, zebra and peacock feather patterns, and an evening gown with a repurposed skirt reminiscent of a Fornasetti print.
The collection culminated in a patriotic finale, with each model wearing a pair of vintage jeans emblazoned with American flag patches. This symbolic gesture, a reprise of a design element from his collection during Barack Obama’s presidency, served as a poignant reminder of the power of voting and civic engagement. Van der Kemp’s return to New York with his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 collection was not only a celebration of his decade-long commitment to sustainable practices, but also a call to action for the fashion industry to embrace more responsible and ethical approaches.
©Photo: Ronald van der Kemp