Ralph Lauren is set to stage a powerful return to Milan Men’s Fashion Week with his Fall/Winter 2026 menswear show, his first Milan runway appearance in 23 years. As the Italian fashion sector faces economic headwinds and shifting global dynamics, the designer’s comeback places him at the heart of a pivotal moment for contemporary menswear.
The timing is curious. While European luxury brands have been traveling to the United States for runway presentations, Ralph Lauren is making the opposite trip for fall 2026. This suggests something about the shifting dynamics of global fashion, though what exactly remains to be seen. Milan Men’s Fashion Week runs from January 16th to 20th, and the designer shares opening day with Zegna and Dsquared2.
Ralph Lauren’s long-awaited return to Milan’s runway
Ralph Lauren’s absence from the Milan runway doesn’t mean an absence from the city. The brand has held presentations there for years, maintaining a presence without the full spectacle of a fashion show. However, presentations and runway shows are different. One is about intimate viewings and conversations. The latter is about making a statement to the industry at large.
The Fall/Winter 2026 show is scheduled for 5 p.m. CET. That’s prime time during fashion week, when buyers and editors are fresh and receptive. The location at the brand’s headquarters suggests that Ralph Lauren wants complete control of the environment. No borrowed spaces or temporary venues. This is his territory.
How Milan’s menswear calendar is evolving for 2026
Milan Men’s Fashion Week will feature 18 physical runway shows for Fall/Winter 2026, including newcomers Domenico Orefice and Victor Hart. Overall, the calendar comprises 76 events, including presentations, parties, and activations. Zegna is returning to Milan after holding its show in Dubai last season. Paul Smith is back after making his debut last season, and Dunhill will present instead of holding a runway show, having joined the city’s showcase in June 2024.
Giorgio Armani will close the week with a double show on January 19th at Via Borgonuovo 21st. Emporio Armani has announced that it will transition to coed shows during Milan Women’s Fashion Week, beginning with Fall/Winter 2026. On January 17th, the sportswear line EA7 will host an event celebrating its role as the Italian team’s official partner and outfitter for the Milano Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games.
The economic pressures reshaping Italian fashion
The Italian fashion industry is struggling. According to preliminary figures from Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, revenues for the fashion sector declined by 3 percent in 2025, reaching 92.9 billion euros. Carlo Capasa, the president of Camera della Moda, noted that this figure is better than earlier estimates, which predicted a 5 percent decrease. After a negative first quarter, performance improved, accelerating in the third and fourth quarters.
However, the numbers reveal a harsher reality. Between 2022 and the end of 2024, the sector lost about 3,000 companies. Exports in 2025 are expected to decline by 4 percent, reaching 87.4 billion euros, with the most significant contraction coming from China. Exports of Italian fashion to China have already plunged 19.8 percent in the first eight months of this year.
According to Capasa, fashion companies have shouldered the impact of American tariffs and the depreciation of the dollar. Meanwhile, exports to France remained unchanged, while those to the United States grew by 2.3 percent. The sector has lost 10 billion euros in sales over the past two years.
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What Ralph Lauren’s comeback means for menswear today
Ralph Lauren’s arrival at Milan Men’s Fashion Week with a runway show sends a signal. The question is, what kind of signal? American designers have historically had complicated relationships with European fashion weeks. Some find validation in showing there. Others prefer the independence of their home market.
For Ralph Lauren, a designer who has built an empire on American iconography and aspiration, choosing Milan for Fall/Winter 2026 seems like a strategic move. The city’s deep tailoring traditions and craftsmanship align with Purple Label’s positioning. The brand’s decision to maintain its headquarters there suggests a long-term commitment rather than a one-off experiment.
The Olympic influence on Milan’s cultural programming
Milan Fashion Week is officially part of the Cultural Olympiad, a series of multidisciplinary cultural initiatives planned for 2025 and 2026 to promote Olympic values. The seasonal ad campaign nods to the Winter Olympics, featuring memorabilia loaned from the Olympic Museum in Lausanne. Instead of its usual runway show, K-Way is hosting Montagna Milano, a two-day event at its Basic Village headquarters.
The Milano Cortina 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games will take place from February 6th to 22nd and March 6th to 15th. Several brands are capitalizing on the connection. Whether this translates to meaningful business remains to be seen. Sports and fashion have always had a relationship of varying degrees of success.
A packed presentation circuit for buyers and editors
Despite the relatively small number of runway shows, Milan’s presentation schedule is packed. Tailoring brands, including Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni, Kiton, Canali, and Pal Zileri, will keep buyers busy for four days. Bikkembergs is moving from Pitti Uomo to Milan for the first time since January 2019.
Etro and Tod’s will both stage menswear presentations on January 18th. Ferragamo has reserved a three-hour time slot that day to spotlight its signature Tramezza men’s shoes. The luxury brand also announced a long-term collaboration with Italian ski legend Alberto Tomba. The last day of Milan Fashion Week is dedicated entirely to digital runway shows from up-and-coming designers.
Newcomer labels such as Plās Collective and Bottega Bernard will present for the first time. These newcomers represent the future, though it is uncertain how many will survive the current economic climate.
Looking ahead: can 2026 spark a real industry rebound?
The Italian fashion industry is looking to 2026 for a potential rebound after a year marked by a significant downturn in luxury spending, as well as a contraction in revenues and exports. Capasa noted that while several businesses are driving growth, many companies are struggling. The objective is to avoid leaving anyone behind.
Despite the impact of recent volatility, the industry needs to continue supporting companies in the American market. Capasa concluded that the hope for 2026 is for sales to remain at least flat compared to 2025, as the industry has lost 10 billion euros in sales over the past two years.