Philipp Plein has never been known for subtlety, and his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented in the opulent setting of his soon-to-open Milan palazzo, continues that tradition. The designer, known for his extravagant designs and lavish parties, offered a glimpse into his latest venture: a dazzling complex that embodies his signature over-the-top aesthetic.
The former Krizia showroom, transformed into a multifaceted space, served as the backdrop for Plein’s latest designs. Guests navigated a maze of rooms, each more lavish than the last, showcasing a collection heavy on the designer’s signature tailoring and embellishments. Sharp suits and separates, often in a classic Prince of Wales check, were punctuated with Plein’s signature sparkle – Swarovski crystals meticulously placed to resemble flames, adding a touch of rock ‘n’ roll to traditional silhouettes. Double-breasted suits in sleek, monochromatic palettes offered a more subdued but undeniably contemporary take on daywear.
Denim played a major role, with distressed jeans paired with metallic blazers, chic tweed jackets and even incorporated into outerwear with deconstructed trench coats. This juxtaposition of high and low, grunge and glamour, is a recurring theme throughout the collection.
For evening, Plein went for a more overtly glamorous aesthetic. Slinky sequined gowns and ethereal pleated dresses floated down the makeshift runway, while a playful cherry print, rendered in lurex and even full paillettes, added a pop sensibility. Crystals, a mainstay of Plein’s design vocabulary, were on full display, adorning everything from bomber jackets and clutch bags to streetwear-inspired denim ensembles. Wide-legged trousers shimmered with intricate beaded argyle patterns, further emphasizing the opulent spirit of the collection.
While the collection itself had plenty to command attention, the setting threatened to steal the show. From the imposing double-P logo emblazoned above the bar to the neon glow emanating from the Japanese restaurant, the palazzo pulsated with a frenetic energy that mirrored the designer’s own personality.
This latest venture marks a significant step for Plein as he expands his empire beyond fashion and into the realms of hospitality and entertainment. With plans to open 25 restaurants worldwide in the next two years, Plein is poised to leave his mark on the world, one glittering venture at a time.
©Photo: Philipp Plein