Noir Kei Ninomiya‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection blossoms with unexpected twists on familiar themes. Known for his avant-garde approach, the Japanese designer once again pushed the boundaries of fashion with a collection that fused structural innovation with romantic imagery.
The show opened with a striking visual statement: a model emerged from the darkness, adorned in a cluster of stylized floral shapes glowing crimson from within. This set the tone for a collection that would explore the multifaceted symbolism of flowers, particularly roses, throughout the presentation.
Ninomiya’s signature black palette was present, but served as a canvas for bursts of color and texture. Oversized petals were paired with casual silhouettes, while carnation-like ruffles adorned tailored pieces, creating an intriguing juxtaposition of structure and softness. The designer’s skill in manipulating materials was evident in the trompe l’oeil suit that, upon closer inspection, revealed itself to be a lightweight duster.
The romantic connotations of roses were further explored through lip motifs, a clever nod to the historical use of rose petals in early cosmetics. These appeared as articulated leather lattices draped over voluminous tops and trousers, and even adorned the lapel of a reimagined biker jacket.
While flowers dominated the collection, Ninomiya also presented other expressions of romance. A revisited tailcoat and a series of frothy white looks closed the show, demonstrating the designer’s range and ability to balance conceptual pieces with wearable fashion.
Rather than seeking complete novelty, Ninomiya focused on updating existing materials, such as dipping fabrics in glossy resins and decorating them with beads. This technique added a new dimension to familiar textures and shapes.
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection marks a return to Ninomiya’s design roots after recent seasons that explored vibrant colors and knitting techniques. However, this homecoming is far from a retreat. Instead, it showcases the designer’s ability to evolve his aesthetic while maintaining the core elements that define the Noir Kei Ninomiya brand.
©Photo: Noir Kei Ninomiya