Harris Reed’s fifth collection for Nina Ricci distills the after-hours allure of 1970s Paris into a vision of unapologetic elegance. For Fall/Winter 2025, the designer channels the chiaroscuro world of Helmut Newton, trading operatic grandeur for a louche sophistication that feels both intimate and audacious.
A single photograph anchored Reed‘s creative process: Newton’s 1973 snapshot of a woman perched on a car under Paris streetlights, dressed head-to-toe in Nina Ricci. This nocturnal energy permeated the collection, which was staged in the darkened basement of the Rothschild Hotel. Models draped in zebra-print velvet and satin slips lounged at cafe tables, their poses echoing Newton’s mix of vulnerability and power. The palette – deep emeralds, burnt citrines and onyx – evoked jewels gleaming in low light, while horsehair trims and feathered cuffs added kinetic tension.
Working with Carine Roitfeld sharpened Reed’s instinct for juxtaposition. Shoulder pads migrated from blazers to sheer chiffon blouses, micro-minis were paired with oversized faux-fur stoles, and men’s tailoring anchored lace negligees. “She understands the spirit of a French woman,” Reed noted, referring to Roitfeld’s knack for balancing provocation with nonchalance. The styling avoided overt theatrics, favoring draped necklaces that whispered rather than screamed.
Reed mined the 1970s for textures that conveyed decadence without being heavy. Fringe-trimmed dresses shimmered like disco reflections, while animal-print coats recalled Ali MacGraw’s jet-set wardrobe. Sheer was strategic: corseted pants under sheer blouses, plunging necklines softened by structured wool jackets. Even jewelry played a supporting role, with wrapped chains and brooches serving as punctuation rather than statement.
This season’s muse is a study in contrasts-a Texas socialite in a zebra-print coat, a Scarface-era Michelle Pfeiffer in satin panties. Reed’s androgynous suiting remains foundational, particularly in ivory three-piece ensembles cinched with citrine furs. But the collection’s boldest statement came at the finale, when feathered cuffs transformed models into shadow-winged angels, fusing celestial drama with streetwise edge.
With limited historical documentation, Nina Ricci’s legacy becomes clay in Reed’s hands. Fall/Winter 2025 embraces this ambiguity, nodding to Yves Saint Laurent‘s Le Smoking through razor-sharp tuxedos while channeling Tom Ford‘s jewel-toned audacity. The result feels less like revival than reinvention – a house writing its next chapter under the glow of streetlights.
©Photo: Nina Ricci