Adrian Appiolaza, the newly appointed Creative director of Moschino, made his menswear debut with the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Drawing from his personal experience of feeling trapped in a corporate suit, Appiolaza masterfully intertwined three narratives: a shift from formality to freedom, the archival landscape of Franco Moschino, and his own journey from Argentina to Milan.
The show opened with heartily ironic takes on corporate attire, featuring shirt-skirts, unreal suspenders, and multi-hat ensembles. Archival references, such as the shredded Moschino fax housecoat and overcoat, the Moschino Air hat, and the goodbye Post-It suit, signaled a departure from the confines of the office.
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As the collection progressed, Appiolaza introduced wearable wish-fulfillments that spoke to the various stories he was combining. A soccer ball sweater paired with a tri-starred baseball cap paid homage to his Argentinian roots, while an Italian flag soccer couple, one with an authentic red sauce splattering, gestured to his new creative home at Moschino.
Latin lovers, southern sirens, and luxury guests in slipper-pocket bathrobes carrying fearsome tool bags graced the runway, echoing iconic fashion editorials. Canonical Moschino heart bags and paneled raffia basket bags accompanied the looks, while the founder’s recurring goose motif appeared on skirts and shirting in a playful, bucolic country wear duet.
Appiolaza’s collection was filled with in-jokes, out-jokes, literal Moschino easter eggs, and purposefully ambiguous references, inviting the audience to interpret them according to their own experiences. A lilac and pale turquoise menswear sarong printed with office supplies, worn beneath an untied-tie shirt, suggested that the salaryman had found his summer paradise.
The show concluded with an all-white heavy linen suit featuring a sleeve-skirt, simultaneously inverting and returning to the beginning. As the models walked their finale around piles of lost luggage, Appiolaza’s tangle of transformational journey narratives came to life, offering a collection that was both scholarly and personal, taking the audience on a journey from corporate conformity to creative freedom.
Read more: Max Mara Resort 2025
©Photo: Moschino
