Adrian Appiolaza, now in his third season at Moschino, presented his Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Milan, taking the audience on a whirlwind tour through fashion history. This wasn’t just a collection; it was a vibrant homage to past subcultures and iconic designers, meticulously curated by a designer with an encyclopedic knowledge of fashion.
The collection unfolded like chapters in a fashion chronicle. Appiolaza paid tribute to the late Franco Moschino, the house’s founder, with draped white gowns reminiscent of a photograph of Moschino himself draping fabric on a mannequin. This connection to the brand’s roots continued with playful polka dots and signature logo belts, quintessential Moschino elements.
Appiolaza’s fascination with fashion history extended beyond the house’s own heritage. The influence of legendary stylist Ray Petri’s Buffalo era was evident in the fedora hats and sharp tailoring, a nod to Petri’s influence on the late 20th century fashion landscape.
The collection pulsated with a punk energy that echoed the rebellious spirit of designer Judy Blame. Appiolaza collaborated with the Judy Blame Trust to incorporate Blame’s signature assemblage necklaces into the collection. This punk spirit was further emphasized with beaded cocktail dresses and sharp leather smoking jackets, a nod to Blame’s subversive elegance.
Appiolaza also didn’t shy away from incorporating elements of grunge. Striped knits and slip dresses evoked the iconic grunge collections of the 1990s, a testament to Appiolaza’s ability to weave disparate fashion moments into a cohesive narrative.
One of the highlights of the collection were the deconstructed little black dresses, which Appiolaza dubbed “tubinos“. These dresses, simple from the front, revealed unexpected cutouts inspired by the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s when viewed from the back. This playful juxtaposition of classic silhouettes with modern deconstruction exemplified Appiolaza’s ability to reinterpret and refresh fashion history.
“Fun and optimism are important for me,” Appiolaza said during a preview. “I think that’s what people are going to find.” With this Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Appiolaza delivered a powerful message: fashion can be a joyful exploration of the past, a celebration of influences, and a showcase for a designer’s vast knowledge and passion.
©Photo: Moschino