Martine Rose‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcased in Milan defies conventional fashion norms, embracing a unique blend of chaos and creativity that captivated its audience. The designer, known for pushing boundaries, delivered a show that left attendees both intrigued and inspired.
Messiness was a deliberate choice, evident from the scattered Rose-imagery flyers and lo-fi scaffolding on the runway. Rose’s aim was to challenge the audience’s expectations, making them look beyond the surface to truly appreciate the garments. The show wasn’t about immediate understanding; instead, it encouraged a deeper engagement with the themes presented.
A striking feature of the collection was the use of latex prosthetics and hermit-long wigs. These elements obscured the models’ identities, prompting the audience to focus solely on the clothing. This approach highlighted Rose’s intent to shift attention from character to couture, emphasizing the artistry of each piece.
Family and community themes resonated through the collection. Photo-booth prints of friends and family adorned various pieces, creating a sense of personal connection. Additionally, the parody soccer shirts, paying homage to Inter Milan, added a playful yet meaningful touch to the lineup.
One of the most talked-about aspects was the inclusion of finely tailored pencil skirts for male models. This bold choice challenged traditional gender norms, sparking conversation and admiration. Rose’s commentary on this was clear: while unfamiliar, it wasn’t shocking. The skirts, akin to Bermuda shorts in length, drew parallels to traditional menswear in different cultures, making a statement on the fluidity of fashion.
The chap-silhouette suiting trousers also stood out, blending a provocative edge with classic tailoring. This combination showcased Rose’s ability to merge unconventional elements with timeless designs, creating pieces that felt both innovative and wearable.
The show took place in the shadow of Fondazione Prada’s golden Haunted House, adding a touch of surrealism to the event. This location, combined with the eclectic soundtrack, tested the reach of Rose’s subversive interpretations, proving that her vision transcends cultural and geographical boundaries.
From moto-boob dresses to bait-buckled bondage belts, each piece in the collection demonstrated Rose’s mastery in distorting archetypal fashion elements. Her designs, while rooted in familiar silhouettes, carried an underlying subversive twist that set them apart.
Read more: MSGM Spring/Summer 2025 – Milan Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Martine Rose
