Lutz Huelle‘s name might not be on the tip of every fashion follower’s tongue, but his influence is undeniable. This season, after a four-year hiatus, the designer returned to the Paris runway with a collection that solidified his reputation as a master of reworked denim and a champion of “real clothes.”
Huelle’s aesthetic is rooted in deconstruction and transformation. Influenced by his time with Martin Margiela, he takes familiar garments, particularly vintage Levi’s, and imbues them with a fresh perspective. This season was no different. We saw expertly spliced denim jackets and pants, where classic silhouettes were reimagined with unexpected materials like pinstripes and plaid.
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Huelle is a master of the statement outerwear piece. Patchwork MA-1 bombers and reconstructed raincoats with swishy, dress-like panels were standouts. His approach to tailoring was equally innovative. Classic tuxedo elements were playfully manipulated, with pintucked pleats running horizontally across the chest or replaced with shimmering sequins.
The collection transcended mere trends. Huelle’s focus on wearability and timeless pieces resonated deeply. This is a wardrobe built to last, with each garment offering endless possibilities for day-to-night transitions.
Huelle’s return is a testament to the power of collaboration. The support of AZ Factory, the Richemont brand founded by Alber Elbaz, allowed him to showcase his vision on the world stage. This partnership highlights the importance of fostering creative communities within the fashion industry.
Read more: Lutz Huelle makes his comeback on the runway with AZ Factory support
©Photo: Lutz Huelle
