Catherine Holstein, the creative force behind Khaite, unveiled her Spring/Summer 2025 collection at New York Fashion Week, revealing a surprising shift in her design aesthetic. Known for her polished yet edgy creations, Holstein’s latest offering showed a warmer, more ethereal side that captivated the predominantly female audience.
The designer attributed this evolution to her recent experience with motherhood, which imbued her work with a newfound sense of warmth and earthiness. This sentiment was evident throughout the collection, as Holstein expertly balanced her signature tailoring with softer, more experimental pieces.
The show opened with Khaite’s signature oversized proportions in a cropped black jacket paired with sheer organza trousers, setting the stage for a series of innovative designs. Hand-knit ribbon peplum tops, crocheted separates and airy organza tubes woven into various garments demonstrated Holstein’s willingness to venture beyond her comfort zone.
One of the standout trends in the collection was the prevalence of sheer organza trousers, styled in a variety of ways that showcased their versatility. From pairing them with slim pink organza funnel-neck dresses to layering them under oversized double-breasted blazers, Holstein proved that transparency can be both elegant and wearable.
The designer’s exploration of craft techniques was particularly notable, with a stunning black open-weave crochet pompom skirt stealing the spotlight. Paired with an oversized hand-knit sweater and T-bar pumps, the look exemplified the collection’s blend of artisanal charm and urban sophistication.
While some voluminous organza pieces may have overwhelmed their models, Holstein’s tailoring skills shone through in several key looks. A white sleeveless shift over champagne hammered silk trousers, accented with shiny red shoes, offered a fresh take on spring elegance. The designer’s leather pieces, including a perfectly slouchy jacket and a sexy black dress with a white bustier detail, demonstrated her continued mastery of the material.
Holstein’s commitment to comfort and functionality was evident in her innovative approach to construction, as seen in a black leather dress with a built-in white strapless sweetheart neckline corset made entirely of stretch fabric.
The show’s intimate setting and soulful soundtrack, featuring artists such as Guns N’ Roses and Leonard Cohen, created an emotional backdrop that complemented the softer mood of the collection. By stepping out of her comfort zone, Holstein proves that evolution can be both challenging and rewarding, offering her loyal clientele a fresh perspective on New York chic for Spring/Summer 2025.
©Photo: Khaite