Diesel‘s Fall/Winter 2024 show shattered the traditional fashion show model, inviting the world into the heart of the creative process through a 72-hour livestream. This groundbreaking approach, spearheaded by designer Glenn Martens, offered a unique glimpse into the meticulous world behind the runway magic, while simultaneously blurring the lines between audience and participant.
Imagine watching the backstage bustle, the meticulous tailoring, and the model fittings unfold in real-time. That’s exactly what Diesel offered, granting unprecedented access to the brand’s Milan headquarters. This transparency, perfectly in line with Martens’ vision for an “alternative” brand experience, resonated deeply with the Diesel community. As Martens himself stated, “We are all about lifestyles, communities, and families – so let’s try and bring them in.”
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The physical show itself was a spectacle in its own right. Instead of the usual celebrity-studded audience, giant screens displayed a live Zoom call featuring 1,000 registered viewers. This “Who’s watching who?” game not only added a playful element but also provided a fascinating snapshot of the diverse Diesel audience – from students to alien-masked figures, everyone had a front-row seat.
While the unconventional format might have stolen some of the surprise, the collection itself did not disappoint. Martens described it as a “melting pot” of his signature codes, showcasing his mastery of fabric manipulation through layering, coating, and distressing. The show started with sleek, grown-up silhouettes, referencing the corporate world with elongated tailoring and checkered fabrics, but with a subversive twist – rubber coatings and disheveled effects hinted at a wilder side lurking beneath the surface.
The collection truly came alive with the explosion of furry looks – a playful and unexpected highlight. Monochrome blazers and coats adorned in faux fur offered a touch of luxury, while vibrant sets covered in transparent mesh added a touch of whimsy. Layering remained a key theme, evident in the series of puffer jackets with devoré effects, revealing glimpses of the lining or padding through their mesh quilting.
While the livestream offered a unique perspective, nothing beats the experience of seeing the clothes up close. The intricate details, the textures, and the sheer craftsmanship were truly captivating. As Martens noted, “No amount of cameras can substitute for the feeling of seeing those effects up-close.”
Read more: Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Diesel
