The Spring/Summer 2024 collection of Carolina Herrera, meticulously curated by the talented Wes Gordon, gracefully weaves the timeless allure of the ’90s New York with a modern twist. Gordon’s inspiration is drawn from style icons of the era like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow, translating into a collection that redefines minimalism, radiating femininity, energy, and wit in every stitch. The end result is a breathtaking blend of nostalgia and innovation, that pays homage to the house’s traditions while embracing a more streamlined, contemporary approach.
The collection, showcased at the ground floor of the Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum, reflected a seamless blend of the past and the present. Gordon explained, “It’s not minimalism so much as it’s wardrobe. To me, clean is too often boring and soulless. It’s the idea of still looking feminine, energetic, confident and witty in a cut that’s more linear.” This conscious approach of avoiding banality while embracing simplicity marked every outfit that came down the runway. The venue itself, with its polished gray concrete and big walls of glass, offered a sleek backdrop that harmonized with the cosmopolitan uniform Gordon aimed to create.
Gordon’s decision to remove superfluous seaming emphasized the pragmatic nature of the pieces, starting with an iconic opening ensemble of a black pencil skirt and white cotton shirt, reminiscent of both Carolina and Carolyn’s styles, paired with kitten-heel slingbacks. This was followed by elongated silk blazers tied to the side over slips, capturing the effortless ease of the ‘90s, and a strapless black silk top with wide-leg pants that epitomized chic simplicity.
The omnipresent hotpants trend was not amiss at Herrera, as Gordon presented them in lavender floral knit paired with a matching cardigan. He also embraced the transparent trend, showcasing a shimmering black embroidered lace pencil skirt and black briefs, perfectly offset by a prim lilac twin set and flat shoes.
Party dresses have always been a pivotal part of the Herrera brand, and this season, Gordon traded embellishments for form, as illustrated by a black and lavender stripe micro pleated tulle ballgown that billowed like a beach umbrella, and bustier dresses with micro pleated tulle cage skirts. Column gowns and pencil skirt and bustier sets also featured prominently as evening options.
While the idea of paring back might seem contrary to a house known for ruffles and roses, Herrera herself embodies a certain sharpness and discipline, which was reflected in the front row where she sat impeccably dressed, not a hair out of place. Gordon’s disciplined approach was mirrored in the finale piece, a crisp black cotton shirt paired with a silver pencil skirt covered in floral arranged paillette embroidery.
The influence of pop culture was also evident as silver, a color that has dominated the runways in New York and is associated with Beyoncé’s love for chrome, shined brightly in the collection. Carolina Herrera, like many other fashion brands, created a custom bodysuit for the superstar to wear during her “Renaissance World Tour” this summer. “It was so incredible to do that, and they were great to work with,” Gordon commented. While the red carpet may not have been rolled out this season, this collaboration served as a glamorous highlight.
Read more: Michael Kors Collection Spring/Summer 2024 – New York Fashion Week
©Photo: Carolina Herrera
