Miami’s sun-kissed spirit has long seduced fashion, and Olivier Rousteing, ever the maestro of Balmain‘s bold allure, couldn’t resist its siren song for the Balmain Pre-Fall 2024 collection. It’s a vibrant love letter to the Sunshine State, a kaleidoscope of tropical motifs and Art Deco swagger that whispers “endless summer” even as winter approaches.
Rousteing’s connection to Miami runs deep. He channels the spirit of founder Pierre Balmain, who wove flamingoes and palm trees into his couture back in the 50s, captivated by Florida’s electrifying energy. Echoes of Rousteing’s own 2013 Resort collection for Balmain shimmer through this collection, with its South Beach hues and those strong, “Miami Vice“-inspired shoulders.
“I just wanted to bring some joy and color into the fashion industry,” Rousteing declares, his voice muffled by the plush embrace of his oversized teddy bear coat. And joy he delivers, in spades. This collection is a smooth, confident strut, boasting couture-worthy silhouettes and enough glittering palm tree embellishments to make even the most jaded fashionista smile.
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Yet, it’s not just about extravagance. Rousteing balances opulence with Balmain’s signature codes: Breton stripes, tweeds, and that powerful, shoulder-defining tailoring, ensuring this collection speaks not just to Balmain’s devoted VICs, but to a wider audience yearning for a touch of sunshine in their wardrobes.
Bicolor cardigan jackets and tuxedos, both for men and women, strut down the runway, their surfaces paved with thousands of gleaming, square sequins. Miami’s vibrant Art Deco architecture finds expression in the bold color-blocking of lapels and the graphic patterns adorning deliberately distressed varsity jackets. But Rousteing isn’t afraid to embrace the graphic bite of black and white, with stripes and harlequin patterns that stand crisp even under the harshest Miami sun.
Pre-Fall, after all, means these clothes won’t hit stores until next May, leaving plenty of time to soak up the sun before any serious chill sets in. And Rousteing has a vision for men to embrace the textured warmth of tweed, crafting roomy coats, hoodies, and jackets in the material, adding a touch of rugged charm to the collection’s playful energy.
The pièce de résistance, however, are the densely beaded flamingo dresses. They’re a flamboyant wink at the quiet luxury trend, a feat of artistry and lightheartedness that wouldn’t look out of place amidst the vibrant chaos of Art Basel. They’re a reminder that even in the face of winter’s chill, a little bit of Miami sunshine can go a long way.
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©Photo: Balmain