Demna Gvasalia’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Balenciaga challenges conventional notions of beauty and desirability. The show, held in a darkened room around a long table reminiscent of Gvasalia’s grandmother’s, was attended by celebrities including Nicole Kidman and Katy Perry. The personal touch underscored the deep-rooted passion for fashion that has propelled Gvasalia from childhood drawings to the helm of a major fashion house.
The collection featured trompe l’oeil lingerie, intricately embroidered and encrusted on flesh-colored bodysuits. This innovative approach to lingerie, a key trend for Spring/Summer 2025, reflects Gvasalia’s distinct aesthetic, which he describes as sensual and even erotic rather than traditionally “boudoir“.
Denim, strategically distressed and paired with high boots, was also explored in the collection. Silky secretary dresses offered a playful contrast, demure in the front but open at the back to reveal corset lacing. Gvasalia’s playful subversion of classic garments was evident in unexpected details, such as starched jeans draped around the neck like a scarf. Even accessories, from baseball caps pulled low over the face to blindfold-like sunglasses, conveyed a sense of playful rebellion.
The collection also featured oversized dresses and coats, as well as cropped bomber jackets paired with low-rise jeans, a modern take on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s iconic cocoon silhouette. Form-fitting leggings and spandex bustiers designed to hug the ribcage demonstrated a commitment to innovative construction techniques.
This focus on pushing boundaries is a hallmark of Gvasalia’s work, reflecting his ongoing fascination with exploring new ways to wear and experience clothing.
Photo: Balenciaga