Jonny Johansson’s latest collection for Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 offered a captivating interplay between contrasting themes: the raw power of nature and the sleek allure of modern technology, translated into a wardrobe that balances textural richness with the undeniable allure of exposed skin, a trend currently dominating the fashion scene.
The show opened with a dramatic statement: a yeti-like Icelandic shearling jacket, a testament to Johansson’s mastery of craftsmanship, yet styled with bare skin beneath, a nod to the season’s prevalent bare-skinned trend. This paradoxical approach continued throughout the collection, evident in the juxtaposition of bodycon silhouettes and the elements, exemplified by the oil-coated, metallic, and rust-inspired denim treatments.
Leather, another cornerstone of the Acne Studios brand, was given a futuristic makeover. Smooth, supple hides reminiscent of saddlery were adorned with wide zippers, echoing the hardware on handbags and blurring the line between clothing and accessories. This concept was further emphasized by the use of bag straps as shoe accents and padlocks incorporated into earrings, necklaces, and even shoe hardware.
Johansson’s signature denim wasn’t left untouched. Sprayed or soaked treatments gave the fabric a unique, almost “mechanized” appearance, reminiscent of the recycled tire “Chairs in Rubber” by Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo, which served as inspiration for the collection. These treatments were translated into high-collared trucker jackets, dresses, and even strapless styles, offering a contemporary twist on a classic material.
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The collection wasn’t solely defined by its raw, industrial edge. Johansson also presented elegant tailored pieces and dresses with bodices that flared at the hip, showcasing a more sophisticated side to the collection. This duality, encapsulated in Johansson’s statement, “Sometimes you really want to crash things,” perfectly summarized the collection’s ability to seamlessly blend contrasting elements.
Read more: Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 – Paris Fashion Week Men’s
©Photo: Acne Studios