| Isabel Marant presented its Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection in Paris at Place Colette. Creative director Kim Bekker designed it, her third ready-to-wear season in charge. Bekker found 1960s Sam Haskins photographs in Los Angeles. The faded prints refer to the Spring 2013 collection. |
The Isabel Marant Spring 2027 collection arrived in Paris with sand underfoot. Guests including Iris Law, Natasha Lyonne and Lou Doillon walked across a beach-like set at Place Colette. Kim Bekker, who became Creative director a year ago, had Los Angeles on her mind.
Bekker came across pictures by Sam Haskins from the 1960s while she was in California. She liked their hazy light and the way the women in them looked strong and sensual at once. That contrast shaped the whole collection.
You could see it in the first look: white board shorts, a crochet top and hair dyed with pink streaks. The same shorts came back in black with a crop top. Embroidered mini dresses in antique-looking linen were worn over swimsuits, with embellished moccasins and large earrings.
The collection moves between plain and decorated pieces. T-shirts and board shorts were reworked in lace and old tablecloth linen. Sculpted black and white blazers went over brooch-covered swimsuits and macramé skirts.
Handwork ran through many looks. There was vintage-style embroidery, rhinestones, and beads that weighed down fine silks. Sequins appeared on everything from shorts to evening pieces.
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Bekker drew the prints from Spring 2013. She had the florals and paisleys redrawn by hand and printed on light, floating fabrics. “I wanted to capture that feeling of summer sunlight, with colors that look almost faded by the sun,” she said.
Layering stayed central to the house’s approach. Loose shirts sat under leather halter tops or chiffon vests. The best trousers were low-slung jeans, shown with a bikini top and also with a sheer tank and a cropped jacket. If you wear denim year-round, this is the pair worth studying.
After dark, the palette shifted. Sheer, lingerie-inspired pieces in pink, green and coral gave way to smoky greys and black. One slip was dotted with silver flowers, and one jacket was embroidered in gold.
Mona Tougaard closed the show in a fluid sequin mini dress, black capri trousers with crochet hems and a slouchy black jacket. It is the look most likely to suit a wide range of women.
Bekker still designs for the woman who attends back-to-back shows in denim and a black jacket. “That attitude is still there,” she said, describing the freedom and confidence in how that woman dresses. For summer, she made it lighter and more relaxed.
Her stated aim is to keep a strong creative identity while making clothes women want to wear. On this evidence, she is getting there.
