For Spring 2027, Catherine Holstein approached dressing from the inside out. Rather than beginning with a fixed silhouette, the designer focused on construction, craftsmanship and the intimate details often hidden inside a garment. That philosophy shaped a collection that felt more expressive and less controlled than recent seasons, while remaining unmistakably Khaite.
The show opened with Kaia Gerber in a sculptural white bra and a fitted black leather midi skirt, its back revealing handmade corsetry. From there, historical references moved freely across decades. Drop waists recalled the 1920s, full skirts and peplums nodded to the 1940s and 1950s, while slip dresses and pared-back lingerie dressing brought the collection back to the 1990s.
Crinoline became one of the season’s most important tools. Instead of appearing as traditional understructure, it was transformed into belts, exaggerated hems and architectural layers within dresses. The effect gave softness a sense of tension, particularly when paired with sheer shirts, ruffles and delicately embroidered surfaces.
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Holstein also reconsidered one of Khaite’s most recognizable signatures: leather. Oversized jackets were replaced by smaller, sharper proportions, with cropped lengths and pronounced shoulders. The shift reflected the designer’s own desire to move away from volume and toward a closer relationship with the body.
Venice provided another key source of inspiration. Memories of the Gritti Palace informed elaborate floral and equestrian embroideries, while lace, hand-knitted details and carefully finished interiors emphasized the collection’s commitment to craft. Much of this workmanship was deliberately subtle, intended to reward closer inspection rather than immediate spectacle.
The styling pushed the romantic mood in a darker direction. Teased hair, exposed bras, slipping dresses and punk-inflected bouffants brought an undone quality to otherwise meticulous clothes.
After a decade of building a highly recognizable wardrobe, Khaite Spring 2027 suggests that Holstein is not interested in repeating a formula. Instead, she is loosening it – making room for romance, eccentricity and craftsmanship, while keeping the confidence and sensuality that define Khaite.
