Pieter Mulier’s appointment as creative director of Versace, effective July 1, marks a significant shift for the Italian fashion house, which is now under Prada Group ownership. Mulier arrives from Maison Alaïa, where his four-year tenure revitalized the storied French brand and attracted a younger clientele without alienating longtime devotees.
The appointment was hardly spontaneous. Versace’s executive chairman and Prada Group scion, Lorenzo Bertelli, told WWD exclusively that the decision materialized long before the public announcement. “We are very happy. This is a decision made a long time ago. I remember we were brainstorming about creative direction as far back as autumn 2024,” Bertelli said. He revealed that Mulier was identified as the right person for the role even while the Prada Group was contemplating acquiring Versace during the pandemic.
Mulier is filling a position that was left vacant under peculiar circumstances. His predecessor, Dario Vitale, left on December 12 after presenting only one collection. According to market sources, Vitale knew that the Prada Group was pursuing another designer even before leaving his previous role at Miu Miu in January 2024. The brevity of his appointment underscores the calculated nature of corporate fashion, where creative vision must align with ownership objectives.
From Raf Simons to global creative director
Born and educated in Brussels, Mulier graduated from the Saint-Luc Institute of Architecture in Brussels with training in design and architecture. He began his fashion career at the Raf Simons menswear label in Antwerp, where he forged a professional partnership that lasted years. When Simons became the creative director at Jil Sander, Mulier followed, expanding his expertise into womenswear and accessories.
The two Belgian designers maintained their collaboration through subsequent appointments. When Simons became chief creative officer at Calvin Klein, Mulier was named creative director. He was responsible for executing Simons’ vision across the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, bridge, and better apparel lines, as well as the accessories line. Simons brought Mulier out for runway bows, a gesture that signaled mutual respect and acknowledgment of their collaborative efforts.
Mulier and Simons remain on friendly terms. Mulier regularly attends Prada shows in Milan, where Simons serves as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada. This connection may have sparked Bertelli’s interest in the designer.
How Pieter Mulier successfully revitalized Alaïa
When Mulier joined Alaïa in February 2021 and presented his first collection for Spring 2022, the house was in need of direction. Azzedine Alaïa, the Tunisian founder who established the brand in 1964, died in 2017, leaving a creative void. The parent company, Compagnie Financière Richemont, which acquired the house in 2007, needed someone who could understand both the founder’s legacy and contemporary demands.
Mulier developed a distinctive and directional style that emphasized craftsmanship, quality, and timelessness. His sculptural volumes and architectural constructions in ready-to-wear generated buzz, while accessories like the Le Teckel bag and ballerina shoes became commercial hits. The ballerina flats, in particular, resonated with fashion buyers, becoming a highly sought-after item throughout 2024 and 2025.
The results were measurable. Although Richemont does not disclose sales figures for individual brands, the company identified Alaïa as a “notable growth driver” among its fashion and leather goods brands, reporting double-digit growth. Sources say the brand more than doubled in size during Mulier’s tenure.
Richemont was reportedly reluctant to lose Mulier, given the momentum he created. However, the Prada Group’s determination to secure Mulier for Versace prevailed.
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Versace under Prada Group: creative and financial challenges ahead
Versace presents different challenges than Alaïa. Under previous owner Capri Holdings, the brand suffered, with fiscal 2025 revenues declining 15 percent to $193 million. Versace lacked a clear identity and struggled to balance founder Gianni Versace’s bold heritage with contemporary commercial demands.
In April 2025, Prada Group acquired Versace from Capri Holdings for an enterprise value of 1.25 billion euros. Shortly after the acquisition, Donatella Versace, who had served as creative director for nearly three decades, was named chief brand ambassador and stepped away from design.
Bertelli believes the brand needs reinterpretation rather than reinvention. “Versace’s identity is distinctive and clear. There is no need to reinvent it. Pieter will know how to reinterpret the brand,” he stated. Sources suggest that Bertelli wants to return to a style that is more aligned with the aesthetic of Gianni and Donatella Versace.
Bertelli confirmed that he is “working very well” with Versace CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger, dismissing speculation about the executive’s potential departure. He praised Capri Holdings for protecting the brand and maintaining focus on the signature line. Although Versace will leverage production and distribution synergies with the Prada Group over time, it will remain separate.
Gianni Versace, Alaïa and the shared fashion legacy
The appointment carries symbolic weight: Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa were contemporaries who rose to prominence during the 1980s and 1990s. Both designers celebrated the female form with sensual, sculptural designs that were often showcased by supermodels, including Naomi Campbell. Campbell famously called Alaïa “Papa” and considered Versace a mentor.
In November 2024, Mulier received recognition for his Alaïa work when he was awarded the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year. This accolade came months before the Versace announcement, validating Mulier’s creative direction.
Alaïa is now searching for Mulier’s successor. According to sources, the house may pursue prominent second-in-command designers, a strategy that yielded Mulier’s selection. Julian Dossena, the creative director at Rabanne since 2013 who is known for his glamorous, exacting designs, is reportedly on the wish list.
Versace will not be present at Milan Women’s Fashion Week in February 2026. Mulier will conclude his tenure at Alaïa after the brand’s fall 2026 show during Paris Fashion Week in March.