Pieter Mulier will step down from Alaïa following the house’s Summer-Fall 2026 presentation during Paris Fashion Week in March. The Belgian designer’s departure marks the end of a period defined by innovative designs and significant growth for the Richemont-owned label.
| 📌 Key Facts |
|---|
| 👤 Designer: Pieter Mulier 🏛️ House: Alaïa (Richemont Group) 📆 Tenure: 2021 – 2026 📈 Growth: Brand size doubled under his leadership 👜 Key Products: Mesh ballerina flats, Teckel bag, Le Click 🏆 Award: CFDA International Designer of the Year (2025) 🔮 Next Move: Versace widely rumored |
Pieter Mulier’s departure confirmed by ALAÏA and Richemont
The Paris-based house confirmed the news on Friday, offering measured words of appreciation. “We sincerely thank Pieter for his vision and commitment, writing an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the house,” said Myriam Serrano, Alaïa’s chief executive officer. Her statement emphasized the collaborative effort behind the brand’s recent success, crediting “the exceptional team he led” for their role in “Alaïa‘s creative renewal, honoring its heritage and strengthening the maison’s relevance, confidence, and global recognition.“
Philippe Fortunato, CEO of Fashion & Accessories Maisons at Richemont, framed the transition around institutional values rather than individual talent. The company emphasized that Alaïa operates with “timelessness, independence, and exceptional craftsmanship,” guided by “the strength of the collective talent that defines Alaïa.” No successor was named, and the studio will manage continuity until a new creative structure emerges.
Honoring Azzedine Alaïa while redefining the House’s DNA
Mulier arrived at Alaïa three years after the death of its founder, Azzedine Alaïa, inheriting the formidable responsibility of honoring the Tunisian-born couturier renowned for his sculptural, figure-flattering designs. The slender designer, who is usually dressed in a white t-shirt and jeans, has brought an experimental modernism to the foundation of the house’s empowering femininity.
His architectural background proved crucial. After studying design and architecture at the ESA Saint-Luc school in Brussels, Mulier spent years working with Raf Simons – first at Simons’s menswear label in Antwerp and then in successive roles at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein. At Calvin Klein, Mulier served as creative director, executing Simons’ vision across multiple categories. This diverse background, particularly his architectural training, prepared him for Alaïa, where collections originate from three-dimensional shapes rather than flat sketches.
Experimental design and radical silhouettes under Mulier
Initially, Pieter Mulier rejected conventional fashion calendars, staging presentations at unexpected venues, including his Antwerp penthouse, the Rue de Marignan boutique, and the Guggenheim Museum in New York. The Guggenheim show, which was attended by Rihanna, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Campbell, featured a collection with no buttons or zippers.
His Summer-Fall 2024 collection demonstrated technical mastery through constraint. Working exclusively with a single merino yarn, he achieved remarkable sophistication. “It was basically taking something extremely minimal and doing something maximal with it, which is very Alaïa. It’s all about sculpture; it’s all about the shape. It’s all about the garment and not what goes on top of it,” he explained to WWD.
Follow all the latest news from Fashionotography on Flipboard, or receive it directly in your inbox with Feeder.
You may also read
How Pieter Mulier drove Alaïa’s retail and accessories growth
The creative work translated into business results. Alaïa more than doubled in size during Mulier’s tenure, though Richemont doesn’t disclose brand-level performance. The company initiated an aggressive expansion plan, growing its retail network nearly fourfold to 20 freestanding stores. Flagship locations opened in Paris and Beijing last year, coinciding with the brand’s entry onto the official Paris Fashion Week calendar.
Accessories became a growth engine. Mulier’s mesh ballerina flats, introduced with his debut collection, were commercial hits, as were the long-handled Teckel handbag and newer styles like Le Click. Richemont identified Alaïa as a “notable growth driver” among its fashion houses, though recent quarterly sales showed weakness.
Mulier’s achievements earned him recognition beyond commerce. In 2025, the CFDA named Mulier International Designer of the Year, acknowledging his daring approach.
What’s next for Pieter Mulier and Alaïa’s creative direction
Pieter Mulier’s next destination remains unconfirmed, though industry observers expect an announcement from the Prada Group regarding Versace as early as next week. The Italian fashion house has had a vacancy since Dario Vitale left in December after a brief tenure. Mulier recently acknowledged Versace’s influence on his work, noting that the brand “was closely linked to Azzedine in the past.”