On June 23rd, Willy Chavarria presented his Fall 2026 collection at the Dojo de Paris, transforming a fashion show into a three-act play. Bringing his New York street-level perspective to the French capital, the designer created a runway experience that felt more like watching a film than observing models walk past in clothes.
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| 🧵 Créateur : Willy Chavarria 🎭 Format: Three-act theatrical runway performance 📍 Location: Dojo de Paris, Paris Fashion Week 👗 Silhouettes: Genderless tailoring, fluid proportions 🧵 Materials: Distressed leather, shearling, cloqué, Napa 🧥 New Line: BIG WILLY accessible workwear collection 👟 Footwear: First footwear line + adidas collaboration ⚽ adidas: Official Mexican Football Federation pieces 🎶 Performers: Mon Laferte, Lunay, Mahmood, Feid 🏳️🌈 Cause: Proceeds support Rainbow Railroad ✊ Message: “Protection is Love” |
The show opened with singer Mon Laferte alone on a darkened stage, removing her jewelry after a long night. Singer Lunay appeared in a separate bedroom scene, beginning his day as Laferte tried to reach him by phone. The two eventually met on a simulated city street where Mahmood worked behind a café counter. What followed was a theatrical production involving multiple performers, lowrider bikes, football players, and an eventual confrontation that ended with a staged shooting.
Chavarria designs from his corner apartment in Manhattan, where he observes people through large windows. This observational quality shaped the entire collection. The designer took inspiration from strangers meeting on street corners, entering restaurants, kissing goodbye, arguing, and jumping into taxis. He observed people falling in love and falling apart, all under the same sun and breathing the same oxygen.
The clothes reflected that democratic view of city life. Cropped suits with loose hips appeared alongside sateen full skirts and layered knits. Chavarria introduced the “sandwich gown,” which pairs a cloqué hourglass front with a trailing champagne silk back. The color palette moved through dim mint, soft pink, and warm orange-red. These colors were chosen to highlight silhouette and form rather than demand attention.
Chavarria’s tailoring comfortably flows between men’s and women’s bodies. His approach rejects the notion that certain cuts belong to certain genders. Slim waists, slightly broadened shoulders, and flattering hips appeared on all figures. Leg shapes ranged from flared to tapered to cropped skinny silhouettes. Navy pinstripes and double-breasted suits exuded authority without stiffness.
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The designer also introduced BIG WILLY, an evergreen workwear collection designed to reach a wider audience with lower price points, as well as his first footwear line. The line includes khaki and black chinos, matching workwear shirts, bomber jackets, and Sutton coach jackets, all of which are finished with the new Big Willy logo. This expansion of the brand’s reach does not dilute what Chavarria stands for.
Textural richness defined much of the collection. Distressed leathers, leopard-print shearling, and supple Napa finishes appeared throughout. Rose motifs appeared on cloqué surfaces and Italian-pleated, elasticated fabrics. Rich colors such as violeta, oro, uniform brown, uniform blue, and Willy red appeared in suiting and skirts that resemble fine leather.
Chavarria continues his partnership with adidas, presenting his fourth collection with the sportswear brand. This season’s offerings include World Cup merchandise officially accredited by the Mexican Football Federation and inspired by iconic Mexican soccer uniforms from the past. The footwear collection includes the Willy Chavarria Megaride Copa and Megaride Bones, as well as the classic adidas Predator soccer cleat.
Accessories expanded to become a key category. The designer introduced the Bronca Bag, his answer to the “it bag” trend, featuring loose W belt details and a magnetic leather frame designed to make a statement. The bags are made with Italian suede, snakeskin, nappa leather, and calfskin. Footwear is produced in partnership with Portuguese manufacturers. Women’s styles include the Furia shoe and the Pepa pump. Men’s footwear includes the Salon Loafer and the Antonio Boot, both of which are finished with Cuban heels.
For the theatrical production, partnerships were formed with Byredo for scent, The Ordinary for skincare styling, and Grindr. With Grindr, Chavarria designed mesh underwear, hinting at a larger collaboration. The show featured performances by Mon Laferte, Lunay, Mahmood, Feid, Santos Bravos, and Latin Mafia. Julia Fox, Luka Sabbat, Romeo Beckham, and Alek Wek walked the runway. Usher, Thundercat, and Arlo Parks watched from the front row.
Chavarria took his final bow wearing a shirt created with The Ordinary that read, “Protection is Love.” Proceeds from sales of the limited-edition shirt will go to Rainbow Railroad, an organization that helps at-risk LGBTQI+ individuals find safety around the world.
