Browse this page on thebasique.com to see all the looks from the collection.
The Erdem Spring/Summer 2026 collection unfolded with the kind of eccentric inspiration that fashion thrives on. Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu drew inspiration from Hélène Smith, a 19th-century medium whose vivid trances transported her across eras and worlds.
Admired by surrealist circles, Smith claimed to wander from Versailles under Marie-Antoinette to faraway India and even Mars. Her visions shaped garments that moved between restraint and extravagance. On the runway, antique lace corsets stood beside jewel-bright, draped dresses reminiscent of saris. The effect was both theatrical and grounded, rich in detail yet precise in construction.
Moralıoğlu showcased more than forty looks, capturing the unpredictability of Smith’s imagination. Stiff coats with high lace collars appeared alongside loose trenches sparkling with diamanté and embroidery. Corset-inspired minidresses made from repurposed lace sat next to flowing silhouettes drenched in searing pink and electric green. The contrasts felt deliberate rather than chaotic.
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One notable detail was the incorporation of Smith’s invented Martian alphabet as embellishments on corseted lace pieces. This reference to one of her most unusual claims underscored the designer’s fascination with women who exist outside of convention yet influence culture. His collections often honor such figures, but this season, his vision felt unusually layered.
The atmosphere of London itself gave the collection a sharper edge. A renewed interest in Marie-Antoinette, sparked by a major exhibition at the V&A, was evident in the panniers and corseted forms on display. In contrast, the relaxed trenches and sari-like drapery spoke of global references that defied neat categorization.
