Creative director Wes Gordon transformed the historic plaza into a magnificent stage for his Carolina Herrera Spring/Summer 2026 collection, presenting 77 looks that captured Spain’s rich cultural essence. This historic event marked the first time in its 44-year history that the New York–based luxury house presented a main collection outside its hometown.
Gordon drew inspiration from two Spanish eras: the Golden Age of the 15th and 16th centuries and the rebellious La Movida cultural movement of the 1980s. The designer’s vision materialized through dramatic silhouettes that channeled the paintings of Velázquez and El Greco. The infanta dresses featured exaggerated hip constructions and appeared to step directly from museum walls onto Madrid’s cobblestones.
The opening look set the tone perfectly – a sweeping black ball gown with an endless train that dominated the square’s expanse and embodied the theatrical grandeur Gordon sought to achieve. Legendary filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar, closely associated with the La Movida movement, sat in the front row alongside his early muse, Bibi Andersen. They witnessed Gordon’s homage to Spanish cinema come to life.
Three specific flowers formed the collection’s botanical foundation, chosen for their deep connection to Madrid’s identity. Roses honored the city’s beloved Rosaleda garden, while carnations celebrated the San Isidro festival, named after Madrid’s patron saint. Violets completed the trio, nodding to the traditional violet-flavored candies gifted to show guests.
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Gordon’s floral interpretations transcended simple prints, becoming sculptural elements that defined the collection’s most memorable pieces. A gold carnation motif was intricately woven into a striking marigold yellow jacquard dress, and fabric violets, crafted from six different textile layers, adorned a lilac bubble dress with meticulous artistry.
The designer embraced Madrid’s creative community by forming meaningful partnerships with local artisans and contemporary talents. Casa Seseña, a heritage cape maker that has previously graced figures like Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway, contributed chic black capes.
Two notable designer collaborations brought fresh perspectives to the Carolina Herrera aesthetic. The Madrid-based legend Sybilla returned to the runway after years away from the spotlight, creating five sculptural shift dresses with floating panels in Herrera’s signature red and black. Meanwhile, Palomo Spain’s Alejandro Gómez Palomo reimagined the classic Herrera white shirt as voluminous tunics and ankle-length styles, which proved to be highlights of the collection.
Gordon’s color palette drew directly from Pedro Almodóvar’s cinematic universe and featured sensual violets and lilacs alongside electrifying fuchsia pinks and intense saffron yellows. His philosophy of exaggeration suited the grand scale of the Plaza Mayor perfectly, manifesting through oversized sleeves, shoulders, trains, and colors.
A standout moment came when veteran Spanish model Esther Cañadas wore an eye-popping, off-the-shoulder ball gown combining Gordon’s signature lilac and marigold yellow with Herrera’s trademark bright red. Gordon described his inspiration for the gown as “a woman who likes to be remembered when she gets dressed and isn’t a wallflower.”
