Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection revives the brand’s provocative spirit while breaking new ground for menswear. Bold tailoring, gender-fluid experimentation and nods to British subcultures define a range that bridges heritage and rebellion.
After nearly a decade without a standalone menswear show, Kronthaler announced plans to relaunch Vivienne Westwood‘s menswear in Milan by June 2025. The decision echoes the brand’s history of upending tradition-evident in sharply tailored collarless jackets, ivory silk ensembles, and trousers cut with a Slimane-worthy slimness. A tricolor belt embroidered with “AK” hinted at Kronthaler’s personal stake in redefining codes of masculinity.
Inspired by the London Underground, the collection celebrated the eclectic commuter style through Harris tweed tailoring and tactile knits. Oversized suits for women featured elongated ties, while men embraced chunky heels and skirts lifted with deliberate imperfection. Kronthaler described it as a “celebration of Englishness,” albeit one tempered by Westwood’s trademark irreverence.
Astrologically printed skiwear paid homage to Kronthaler’s Tyrolean roots, with puffers and technical gear contrasting sharply with regal crinoline minidresses. The designer cited Brigitte Bardot’s role in “And God Created Woman” as a touchstone for liberated femininity, reflected in twisted brocade gowns and cowl-neck silhouettes.
While necklaces spelled out “chaos,” the collection balanced audacity with craftsmanship. Machine-knit sweaters mimicked handcrafted textures, and moleskin trousers showcased exacting fits. A mimosa-tossing finale honored International Women’s Day and fused Austrian tradition with Italian flair.
Fall/Winter 2025 marks the first combined presentation of Vivienne Westwood’s mainline and Kronthaler’s eponymous line, a strategic shift that emphasizes cohesion without dilution. For loyalists, it’s a promise: the punk ethos lives on, now with sharper Milanese polish.
©Photo: Vivienne Westwood