Ten years after his first show, Kei Ninomiya’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection transformed Paris into an underwater dreamscape where fashion defied convention. The Noir Kei Ninomiya runway glowed with bioluminescent details, resin textures and silhouettes that blurred the line between organism and artifice. This season, the designer’s signature avant-garde ethos met whimsical experimentation, offering garments that felt both alien and intimately human.
The show opened in near darkness, with ultraviolet light illuminating collars, nails and embroidery like scattered constellations. Models emerged from the depths, their outfits resembling neon sea creatures. Translucent ruffled coats overlapped tailored shorts, while PVC biker jackets contrasted with quilted satin skirts that ballooned at the hips. Ninomiya’s use of resin, molded into undulating shapes resembling coral or sea urchins, added tactile depth to pieces that seemed to pulse with energy.
Halfway through, the collection shifted to softer fantasies. Candyfloss pink flurries drifted over floral jacquard dresses, while gold lurex knits draped houndstooth separates anchored by oversized pipe cleaner bows. These moments balanced the collection’s strangeness with wearability, demonstrating Ninomiya’s ability to ground surrealism without sacrificing wonder. Backstage, the designer emphasized joy as his guiding force, describing resin techniques as a way to create “something happy” beyond traditional textiles.
Accessories played a starring role. Hair sculptures reminiscent of Styrofoam quiffs and chandelier-like headpieces echoed the theme of otherworldly beauty. Gold Reebok sneakers provided a subtle nod to streetwear, grounding looks that might otherwise float into abstraction.
For longtime followers, the show felt like a homecoming. Ninomiya’s decade-long journey – from Comme des Garçons showrooms to his own spotlight – was reflected in pieces that celebrated curiosity over commercialism. But newcomers might be surprised by the collection’s quiet optimism, a departure from noir’s traditional austerity.
©Photo: Noir Kei Ninomiya
