The return of Kenzo‘s dedicated womenswear show after eight years brought a provocative collision of punk irreverence and playful absurdity to Paris, anchored by Creative director Nigo‘s vision and design director Joshua Bullen’s British-influenced tailoring. Presented at the brand’s Rue Vivienne headquarters, the Fall/Winter 2025 collection fused Savile Row precision with DIY chaos, channeling icons like Johnny Rotten and Vivienne Westwood while nodding to the legacy of Kenzo Takada.
Nigo’s fascination with the raw energy of punk manifested itself in shawl-collared tuxedo jackets, sharp-waisted Harris tweed coats and checkered rompers. Oversized New Era caps and Jacob the Jeweler-inspired belts punctuated looks that reflected a streetwear sensibility tempered by polished craftsmanship. Silhouettes leaned toward exaggerated proportions: ballooning harem pants contrasted with cropped bombers, while kimono jackets fused East-West influences.
Bullen emphasized customization as a core theme, evident in lingerie slips peeking over wool bloomers and mohair shorts layered under raw Japanese denim. “Borrowing your boyfriend’s clothes and then making them your own,” he noted, underscoring the collection’s tomboy appeal. Eveningwear took a subversive turn with Italian-made jackets trimmed in stuffed fur, their opulence undercut by rebellious slashes and asymmetric cuts.
The show’s climax leaned toward surreal humor. Models stomped in slingback bunny slippers, while coats constructed from dozens of stuffed animals – pink, blue and ivory – added a tactile whimsy. A soundtrack spanning Mobb Deep, Blondie, and the Sex Pistols underscored the collection’s chaotic spirit, culminating in Chas & Dave’s “Rabbit,” a cheeky nod to the rabbit-centric final looks.
Guests left with t-shirts and crayons tucked into metallic envelopes emblazoned with a cheerful bunny emblem, signaling a potential shift away from Kenzo’s iconic tiger. The gesture reflected the show’s balance of nostalgia and forward-thinking audacity.
Backstage mood boards featured David Bowie and The Damned, grounding the collection in the visual history of punk. Bullen revealed Nigo’s early collection of Vivienne Westwood‘s Seditionaries designs and his stint in a band called the Tokyo Sex Pistols. “Punk’s energy, not just its clothing, drives this,” Bullen explained. The result was a lineup that felt less like a revival and more like a reclamation-sharp, witty, and unapologetically young.
©Photo: Kenzo