The Yohji Yamamoto Spring/Summer 2025 collection offered a fascinating exploration of deconstruction and imaginative design. The somber palette and unconventional silhouettes prompted reflection on time, the evolution of fashion and the current state of the world. Pianist Pavel Kolesnikov, who provided a live soundtrack of classical pieces, described the atmosphere as dreamlike yet dark.
Yamamoto himself, however, revealed a surprisingly lighthearted inspiration: children’s clothing. He set out to create outfits with a childlike sensibility, a task he admitted was challenging. The resulting garments showcased a wide range of textures and shapes, from relaxed tailoring with sporty touches to dramatic gowns. While some pieces evoked a sense of fragility, others exuded power.
The collection featured knotted fabrics, jagged edges and unconventional silhouettes. Despite the seemingly haphazard construction, the looks possessed an underlying sophistication, a testament to Yamamoto’s mastery of his craft. The finale was a series of impeccably executed red dresses that showcased Yamamoto’s technical prowess.
The designer alluded to the use of new materials, suggesting a commentary on the industry’s potential for innovation with existing resources. The variety of fabrics, from foiled and felted textures to floaty materials, further emphasized the playful yet complex nature of the collection.
Yohji Yamamoto’s designs continue to challenge convention with their contradictory impulses and expressions. His latest collection demonstrates how seemingly simple shapes and unconventional combinations can achieve a sophisticated and unique aesthetic. The use of monochromatic, loosely pinned shapes and swirls of denim and jacquard created a look that was both opulent and understated. The show closed with a series of red ensembles, a striking visual statement.
The collection sparked multiple interpretations, from mad romance to childlike playfulness, underscoring the subjective nature of Yamamoto’s work. But the resounding applause at the end of the show signaled a collective admiration for the designer’s vision.
©Photo: Yohji Yamamoto
