Paul Smith’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection returns to Tokyo with renewed vigor, celebrating decades of collaboration between the British designer and Japan. As the headline guest at Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo, Paul Smith presents a co-ed lineup of 40 looks, fusing his iconic style with Japanese cultural motifs. The event, part of Rakuten’s “by R” initiative to elevate homegrown fashion, highlights both menswear and womenswear, as well as a new collaboration with Barbour. Inspired by the golden age of photography and Japanese aesthetics, the collection is rooted in international heritage.
More than five decades into his career, Smith has deep ties to Japan, which is his largest overseas market with 150 stores. His Fall/Winter 2025 show at Tokyo’s National Museum marks a rare return to the country since 2014, blending global influences with local traditions. Men’s pieces revisit prints rooted in his father’s vibrant photography and personal doodles, while relaxed suits and layered textures evoke the laid-back elegance of ’60s photographers like David Bailey. Women’s designs, typically seen in showrooms, debut on the runway with fluid silhouettes in muted tones that reflect Japanese minimalism.
The collaboration with Barbour introduces wax jackets, knitwear and shoes, while Smith’s orchid print – a tribute to his father – adds a personal touch. Materials like thorn-resistant fabric and space-dyed wool emphasize durability for the “eccentric photographer on the move.” A standout partnership with British company Niwaki combines garden tools with Paul Smith stripes, bridging artistry and practicality.
Smith credits Itochu Corp, his longtime partner in Japan, for trusting his vision without compromise. His success in the country stems from cultural immersion: embracing local customs, food, and craftsmanship rather than treating it as a transactional market. “They let me be me,” he says, noting that his stores thrive by staying true to his British flair for colorful tailoring.
Rakuten’s Ryo Matsumura calls Smith’s involvement transformative, asserting that the partnership will boost Tokyo’s global fashion standing. Beyond the runway, Smith plans visits and collaborations in Kyoto, reaffirming his belief in the synergy between creativity and craftsmanship.
The strength of the collection lies in its authenticity – honoring history without repeating it. Smith’s commitment to detail and cross-cultural exchange ensures that Fall/Winter 2025 is not just a season – it’s a dialogue between East and West, past and present.
©Photo: Paul Smith