Melitta Baumeister returns with her Fall/Winter 2025 collection, featuring architectural forms and unconventional proportions that challenge traditional fashion boundaries while remaining surprisingly wearable for uncertain times.
Walking through Baumeister‘s Paris showroom is like entering a laboratory where fashion conventions dissolve. The designer, who won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2023, continues her thoughtful approach to presentation, eschewing runway spectacles for intimate viewing experiences.
“Runway shows require enormous resources,” Baumeister explains during our meeting. “For independent designers, sustainability means making careful choices about how we present our work.” Her decision speaks volumes about contemporary fashion’s rethinking of established systems.
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection builds on Baumeister’s signature experimentation with shape and volume, while introducing more streamlined silhouettes than previous seasons. Unlike many designers who perpetuate conventional body ideals, Baumeister creates forms that reimagine rather than simply adorn the female figure.
Technical innovations define the collection’s protective elements – precision-molded quilted fabrics create structured pieces that shield without restricting movement. Sharp-shouldered jackets and high-necked coats suggest strength through form rather than embellishment.
“The world feels increasingly unpredictable,” Baumeister notes, gesturing toward a series of padded garments. “These pieces respond to this reality without succumbing to pessimism.” The resulting aesthetic conveys resilience through thoughtful design rather than aggressive posturing.
Particularly striking are jackets with foam-reinforced panels that create subtle armor-like effects. Unlike previous collections that looked to an optimistic future, Fall/Winter 2025 acknowledges current anxieties while offering practical solutions.
Baumeister balances protective elements with surprising touches of luxury. A circular pleated dress in rich gold catches the light beautifully, while evening options feature elongated torsos paired with voluminous skirts.
For daywear, black denim woven with gold thread appears throughout – visible in jacket linings and distressed edges. Another standout is painted denim sets with contrasting white-tipped details.
Texture adds depth through ruffled taffeta and wing-effect detailing on cocoon coats. These techniques add complexity without sacrificing wearability.
Despite the serious subject matter, Baumeister maintains her signature wit. Oversized pellet bags nod to practical concerns, while distinctive shoes developed with technical partners appear intentionally imperfect-some look as if pulled from wet cement, others seemingly covered in moss.
Accessories include charm necklaces with miniature representations of everyday objects alongside unexpected elements such as the designer’s own head in miniature form.
“Now people want clothes that work practically,” says Baumeister. This collection strikes a remarkable balance – conceptually strong yet genuinely wearable. While some pieces deliberately confound expectations, others offer sophisticated solutions for everyday life.
©Photo: Melitta Baumeister
