Fashion’s revolving door of Creative director appointments has turned again. Marco de Vincenzo and Etro confirmed the end of their collaboration, parting ways by mutual agreement after nearly four years. The split was announced Thursday through a brief official statement, with the brand citing “a new strategic phase” as the reason behind the change.
Etro was measured but warm in its public remarks. “Etro wishes to express its gratitude to Marco de Vincenzo for his dedication, professionalism, and creative contribution over the years and extends its best wishes for his future projects,” the statement read. The statement added that “the maison now looks to the next developments with confidence, continuing its journey of enhancing its lifestyle identity and creative heritage, in continuity with the innovation and values that have always distinguished it.”
Polished corporate language, of course. However, reading between the lines, the split signals something more significant: a brand reassessing its direction at a critical moment for the luxury market, where consumer preferences are changing and heritage labels are under pressure to define themselves and their target audience.
When de Vincenzo was appointed in 2022, the choice made sense. He had strong roots in Italian fashion, a keen sense of color, and extensive expertise in leather goods, developed during his years as a consultant for Fendi. At Etro, he took on a wide remit, overseeing women’s wear, men’s wear, and the home category – a substantial responsibility for any designer.
His debut collection appeared on the Milan Women’s Fashion Week calendar in September 2022, presenting his vision for Spring 2023. From that point forward, he worked to establish his own sensibility within a house known for its bold prints, vibrant textiles, and free-spirited aesthetic, which is rooted in founder Gimmo Etro’s travels and passions. Founded in 1968, the brand built its reputation on paisley motifs and richly woven fabrics that evoke wanderlust.
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de Vincenzo’s use of bold colors, intricate embellishments, optical effects, and luxurious fabrics was not entirely foreign to Etro’s world. However, grafting a strong, individual voice onto such a well-established house is never straightforward.
de Vincenzo arguably made the clearest mark in accessories. His background in leather goods provided him with a precise and practiced understanding of how to develop a category that drives significant revenue for any luxury brand. According to industry observers, this was one of the more tangible areas of progress during his tenure.
Long before Etro, de Vincenzo had established himself as a respected figure in Italian fashion. He won the “Who Is on Next?” competition, a Vogue Italia talent search that has historically served as a reliable barometer of emerging design talent. de Vincenzo launched his own label in 2009 and had attracted the attention of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton by 2014, which entered into a joint venture with him. The partnership ended in April 2021, when de Vincenzo bought his brand back from LVMH and MMGP Srl. This required courage and conviction.
For Etro, the question now is who will take over and what their brief will be. The house has a loyal following and a rich archive to draw from. Choosing the wrong creative direction at this point could be costly.
For de Vincenzo, the road ahead is open. A designer with his experience and range rarely remains unemployed for long.