Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2025 collection emerged as a beacon of hope in the fashion landscape. The show, held on a balmy Friday evening, transformed the runway into a canvas of sartorial innovation.
Kawakubo’s vision for the season centered on finding light in darkness, a theme beautifully realized through her masterful tailoring and unexpected embellishments. The collection’s foundation rested firmly on impeccable suiting, elevated by Kawakubo’s signature avant-garde touches.
Opening with striking black ensembles, the show quickly established its formal yet boundary-pushing tone. Crisp white tulle peeked out from beneath jackets and coats, creating a captivating interplay of textures and volumes. As the collection unfolded, a surprising infusion of pink breathed new life into the traditionally somber palette.
Luxurious fabrics took center stage, with lustrous satins and velvets adding a festive flair to the proceedings. Some pieces sparkled with subtle metallic flecks, while others featured intricate knife-pleating, showcasing Kawakubo’s attention to detail and craftsmanship.
The designer’s exploration of ruffles proved particularly noteworthy. These embellishments ranged from geometric, radiator-like formations to more romantic, Elizabethan-inspired creations. The ruffles adorned lapels, cascaded down sleeves, and even replaced traditional cavalry stripes on trousers, adding a playful yet sophisticated element to the collection.
Kawakubo’s experimentation with silhouette was evident throughout. Jackets featured extended armholes that looped dramatically to the hip, while pants relaxed into wide, lacy layers. This juxtaposition of structure and fluidity created a dynamic visual rhythm on the runway.
The show’s color story evolved organically, with pink gradually asserting itself alongside the initial black offerings. This progression culminated in vibrant, nearly fluorescent frock coats adorned with loose fabric bows – a bold statement that perfectly encapsulated the collection’s spirit of optimism.
Accessories played a crucial role in completing Kawakubo’s vision. Whimsical hairstyles by Takeo Arai incorporated colorful plastic barrettes, while footwear from Kids Love Gaite featured unexpected ruffled details. Select looks also showcased pink-accented Nike Sense 96 SPs, bridging the gap between haute couture and streetwear.
As the show reached its finale, Kawakubo unleashed a riot of color and texture. Metallic brocades, glossy raincoats in playful floral prints, and tulle garments stuffed with vibrant fabrics created a sense of joyful abundance. The closing look – a black tulle trenchcoat revealing glimpses of a brocade adorned with green and red metallic discs – elicited spontaneous applause from the audience.
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©Photo: Comme des Garçons
