The planets aligned at the Grand Palais for Blazy’s Chanel debut. The Chanel Spring-Summer 2026 collection marked the beginning of a new chapter for the French fashion house. Blazy is only the fourth Artistic director since Coco Chanel founded the brand 115 years ago. Blazy, a Franco-Belgian designer who spent nearly three years at Bottega Veneta, had just nine months to prepare his first collection. The anticipation was extraordinary, but Blazy delivered something genuinely unexpected.
For the occasion, the Grand Palais was transformed into a planetarium, with enormous illuminated spheres representing the solar system suspended above a glossy black floor. Blazy aimed to convey a sense of freedom and unrestricted fashion, stating that “we all look at the same sky” and that “there is something universal” about the stars. The setting referenced Karl Lagerfeld’s spectacular show sets while pointing toward a fresh direction.
Blazy opened with cropped pantsuit jackets in checked wool, inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s habit of borrowing clothes from her boyfriend, Boy Capel. Blazy collaborated with Charvet, a renowned Parisian shirtmaker, to design oversized white tuxedo shirts to be worn with sweeping black skirts. The designer explained that he was drawn to Chanel’s revolutionary spirit and her determination to define her own path.
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Fabric innovation drove much of the collection. Blazy used viscose to make the iconic tweed lighter and more dynamic. The suits avoided typical bulkiness and looked nearly weightless by comparison. Knit V-necks with undershirts peeking from the hems were paired with matching wrap skirts, and sweater sets featured embroidered camellias at the hem.
Several elements reflected Blazy’s personal approach to the archives. The ribbed cotton visible above low-slung waistlines referenced the jersey that Coco Chanel first used to make her marinière, which was originally made from underwear fabric. Blazy mentioned that his grandfather had worked at a men’s underwear factory, which added personal resonance to the detail.
The accessories received thoughtful updates, too. Blazy reimagined the iconic 2.55 bag by adding wire to its flaps, allowing wearers to shape the bag themselves. He wanted the bag to look well-loved rather than old, explaining, “I’m interested in that aspect of time, in something you cherish.” The brand’s signature two-tone flats were made from ultrasoft materials inspired by chocolate pralines.
Eveningwear featured unexpected combinations. Satin T-shirts were paired with feathered ball skirts, the hems of which rose slightly in the front to showcase the updated cap-toe shoes. A scarlet ball gown covered in feathery tendrils was paired with a cropped, striped men’s shirt. The collection included 77 modern and easy silhouettes without compromising craftsmanship.
Nicole Kidman and Ayo Edebiri, the newly announced brand ambassadors, sat in the front row with other celebrities, including Margot Robbie and Penélope Cruz. Model Awar Odhiang closed the show in an ivory silk T-shirt with an open back. She wore it with a ball skirt covered in multicolored flowers. The audience rose in approval.
Blazy admitted to feeling overwhelmed by the archives at first. “There was so much beauty that I didn’t know where to begin,” he said backstage. However, he found that Chanel’s codes could be simplified yet remain recognizable. His approach was experimental and courageous, putting Chanel on a new path while respecting the foundation Gabrielle Chanel established.