This was Veronica Leoni’s third runway outing for the American legacy brand. The collection aimed to strip away the stereotypes associated with the label. Leoni drew inspiration from the late 1970s and early 1980s. This era marked a time when the founder built his empire with an unapologetic vision. He created a foundation defined by clean modernity and subtle eroticism. The decision to look back felt timely.
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| 👔 Brand: Calvin Klein Collection 🗓 Season: Fall 2026 👩🎨 Creative Director: Veronica Leoni 🧬 Inspiration: Late 1970s Calvin Klein archives 👖 Hero piece: Updated 1976 denim with cursive back-pocket logo 🧥 Key focus: Rebuilding the luxury Collection line 📍 Venue: The McCourt at The Shed, New York 🧵 Signature codes: Sharp tailoring, minimalism, subtle eroticism 🎯 Strategic goal: Elevate high-end positioning for global luxury retail |
The designer faces the complex task of rebuilding the high-end Collection line. This category had been dormant since Raf Simons’s departure. Previously, Leoni leaned toward the conceptual. This season, however, she embraced a sharper minimalism. Her mood boards displayed archival photographs from pivotal years of the house. These images served as a guide. Leoni aimed to challenge the typical perception of the brand. The result was a lineup grounded in the house’s history.
Popular culture currently obsesses over the brand’s 1990s aesthetic. The Ryan Murphy series “Love Story” about JFK Jr. and Carolyn Bessette Kennedy highlights that decade’s sleek aesthetic. Bessette Kennedy remains a style icon for her simple button-downs and slip dresses. However, Leoni chose to look further back. She bypassed the widely celebrated ’90s era for the more radical late ’70s. This decision speaks to a desire to find a different kind of edge. The 1976 jeans predate Brooke Shields’s famous advertisements. They represent a time before the brand became synonymous with denim. Leoni updated these pants by adding a cursive logo to the back pocket. It was a smart move.
The venue setup at The McCourt inside The Shed reflected the brand’s structure. An intimate circle of red chairs was set within a larger square space. This arrangement mirrored the business model, with the high-end Collection line at the center of a massive global operation. While main streets around the world sell mass-market jeans and perfumes, the runway collection defines the creative direction. Leoni designs for luxury consumers who shop at Net-a-Porter or Moda Operandi. Her task is to make those expensive clothes feel essential.
Tailoring played a significant role. Long, slim silhouettes strode down the runway. Some jackets had peek-a-boo cutouts that revealed branded undergarments. This was a nod to the logo mania that would come later, but it was executed with restraint. There were also oversized elements. Sleeveless men’s power suits appeared. Muscle T-shirts made of wool jersey evoked a sense of hedonism.
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This season’s clothes felt more directional than her previous efforts. She offered a range of revealing and concealing designs. There were sheer backs on prim tweed dresses. Transparent leather trenches added a provocative touch. However, the collection also catered to the practical needs of a modern wardrobe. The leather bomber jacket and sharp black satin tuxedo showcased her technical skill. These are the clothes that build a reputation. The designer seems to have found a way to honor the founder’s legacy while adding her own contemporary perspective.
