- Black ceramic case and Samuel Ross’s industrial design language
- Unico HUB1280: Hublot’s in-house Flyback chronograph
- From tourbillon sculptures to an accessible SR_A chronograph
- Price, positioning and competition in the luxury chronograph market
- When industrial design aligns with Hublot’s manufacturing expertise
With the Big Bang Unico SR_A, Hublot and Samuel Ross have taken a decisive step toward accessibility. For the first time, Ross’s industrial design meets Hublot’s Unico chronograph movement, resulting in a sleek black ceramic watch that combines radical aesthetics, technical credibility, and everyday wearability without the exorbitant price of a tourbillon. Released on January 19th in Milan, this 200-piece edition marks the first time that Ross’s industrial design language has met Hublot’s Unico chronograph movement.
This shift is significant because it changes who can own one of these watches. Previous SR_A models were produced in small quantities and featured tourbillon complications that drove prices far beyond what most enthusiasts could justify. This new model, priced at $31,200, commands a high price but is more affordable than previous models. You’re getting the same in-house chronograph that powers dozens of other Hublot models, now filtered through Ross’s distinct aesthetic.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| ⌚ Model: Hublot Big Bang Unico SR_A x Samuel Ross 🎨 Design: Black ceramic case with industrial, architectural aesthetics ⚙️ Movement: HUB1280 Unico in-house flyback chronograph 🔋 Power reserve: 72 hours 📏 Case size: 42 mm, 14.5 mm thick 🌊 Water resistance: 100 meters 🧵 Strap: Honeycomb-pattern structured rubber 🔢 Limited edition: 200 pieces 💰 Price: $31,200 USD 📍 Launch: Milan, January 19th |
Black ceramic case and Samuel Ross’s industrial design language
The 42mm case is made entirely of black ceramic, with a satin finish on some surfaces and a polished finish on others. Hublot has been working with ceramic for years, and the material choice here aligns with the brand’s 20th anniversary of its All Black concept. CEO Julien Tornare specifically mentioned this milestone, noting how the collaboration with Ross fits naturally into it.
Ross describes his approach clearly: “Stealth, strength, and speed. Our first signature SR_A Hublot chronograph advances our design dialogue across London and Geneva. Deeply functional, robust, and hard-wearing, we envisioned a new wearable machine for the wrist, built for a rugged, hands-on lifestyle.“
The watch’s most recognizable feature is its honeycomb pattern. Ross developed a structured rubber strap that incorporates this geometric motif throughout its length. This pattern has appeared in earlier SR_A pieces, including sculptures and previous watch editions, but its integration into the overall design is more seamless here. Ross explained his thinking: “With the honeycomb, it was about taking information away from the watch to increase its lightness.“
The design of the strap actually affects how the watch sits on the wrist. The lightweight rubber combined with the architectural structure means that, despite the case material, you’re not dealing with a heavy slab of ceramic. The ergonomics are better than you would expect from something that looks this angular and industrial.
Unico HUB1280: Hublot’s in-house Flyback chronograph
The HUB1280 Unico movement provides the mechanical basis. Introduced in 2010 as Hublot’s first in-house chronograph caliber, the Unico has become the brand’s signature movement. The front-facing column wheel is visible at the 6 o’clock position through the skeletonized dial. The flyback chronograph function allows you to reset and restart timing without first stopping.
Silicon components in the escapement reduce friction and improve precision. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound. Five patents cover various aspects of the mechanism, including dual oscillating clutches and anti-trembling systems. Hublot tests every Unico movement using its Chronofiable protocol, which goes beyond standard industry certification to test performance.
The skeleton dial exposes most of these components. A black matte finish maintains the monochrome appearance and stealthy look that Ross aimed for. Through the openings, you can see the chronograph mechanism operating, and the overall transparency highlights the technical architecture without feeling overly decorative.
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From tourbillon sculptures to an accessible SR_A chronograph
Ross founded his SR_A studio in 2019, developing a practice based on structural forms and engineered surfaces. His relationship with Hublot began that same year when he received the Hublot Design Prize. The three tourbillon editions that followed explored different material combinations and sculptural possibilities. However, they remained exclusive items produced in extremely limited quantities.
This new direction deliberately broadens access. Tornare addressed this directly: “The Big Bang Unico SR_A brings together our most recognizable in-house movement and Samuel Ross’s design philosophy. It represents a natural development of our collaboration – more open, more accessible, and driven by the same commitment to innovation that has defined the SR_A story from the beginning.“
The black ceramic design unifies all the elements of the watch’s appearance. Previous SR_A models mixed materials and colors to emphasize their sculptural nature. This version simplifies things with a single color palette, allowing the geometric forms and technical details to provide visual interest without relying on contrast between different materials.
Price, positioning and competition in the luxury chronograph market
At $31,200, the Big Bang Unico SR_A costs roughly what you’d expect for a ceramic Big Bang Unico featuring a design collaboration. Standard Big Bang Unico ceramic models typically cost between $25,000 and $35,000, depending on the specifics. The limited production of 200 pieces adds exclusivity without making the watch completely unobtainable.
The pricing puts it in direct competition with other design-driven chronographs from brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer, and various independent makers. While you’re no longer paying for a tourbillon, you’re still buying into a specific aesthetic vision that won’t appeal to everyone. Ross’s industrial language translates better to some audiences than to others.
The watch is available through select Hublot boutiques and the brand’s website. The limited production run of 200 pieces should give interested buyers a reasonable amount of time to make a decision, though Ross’s growing profile in fashion and design circles might accelerate demand beyond that of typical Hublot releases.
The watch is 14.50 mm thick and offers 100 meters of water resistance. Six H-shaped titanium screws secure the bezel to the case, a signature feature of the Big Bang collection. The deployant buckle clasp is made of black ceramic and black-plated titanium to match the case materials.
When industrial design aligns with Hublot’s manufacturing expertise
The success of this collaboration hinges on the compatibility between Ross’s design approach and Hublot’s manufacturing capabilities. Ross’s work with geometric precision and industrial references actually suits modern watch production techniques. Ceramic machining, rubber molding, and skeletonized movement decoration align naturally with his aesthetic preferences.
The honeycomb strap required specific development for this model. Creating structured rubber that maintains its geometric pattern while remaining flexible enough for comfortable wear requires careful balancing of material properties. The result is substantial yet comfortable during extended wear.
The movement finishing remains relatively straightforward. Black plating on the tungsten oscillating weight and circular satin finishing on visible components keep things simple. There are no hand-beveled edges or intricate anglage, which matches the industrial character Ross brings to the project.
Ross continues to develop his design language across multiple disciplines. His work includes furniture, sculpture, apparel, and these watch collaborations. The SR_A identity he’s built remains consistent across these applications, ensuring that each new piece is recognizable as part of the same creative vision.