Paris has witnessed another defiant moment from EGONlab. Nompeix and Glémarec unveiled their Fall 2026 collection, titled “LAZARUS,” at the Palais de Tokyo, delivering an unmistakable message. While fashion houses across Europe are tightening their creative reins to protect profit margins, these two designers have chosen rebellion.
The EGONlab Fall 2026 collection was released during a turbulent period for the industry. Market conditions have deteriorated, geopolitical tensions show no signs of easing, and many brands have responded by retreating into commercial safety. Nompeix and Glémarec observed this pattern and decided to move against it. They named this collection “LAZARUS” to signal resurrection – a return to creative identity after feeling pressured to prioritize survival over innovation.
| 📌 Key Facts |
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| 🧵 Collection: Fall/Winter 2026 – “Lazarus” 🏆 Designers: Kevin Nompeix & Florentin Glémarec (ANDAM Pierre Bergé Prize winners) 📍 Location: Paris Fashion Week, Palais de Tokyo 🎨 Creative Direction: Urban-punk tailoring, transformation, trompe l’oeil ⚠️ Context: Global fashion industry downturn and creative conservatism 🤝 Collaborations: Converse, Tinder 🎗️ Social Impact: 30% of Tinder collaboration profits donated to Safe Place 👗 Expansion: Continued development of EGONLAB womenswear |
Reclaiming creative identity in a risk-averse fashion industry
The duo described their current moment as an awakening. They wanted to reclaim what made EGONlab distinctive when they founded the label in 2019, just months before the pandemic disrupted their momentum. During that early period, they had to build relationships differently, hosting informal gatherings at their apartment-turned-showroom to connect with the French fashion press. The approach worked. By 2021, they had won the prestigious Pierre Bergé Prize from ANDAM.
Four years later, the landscape has shifted again. Where they once fought to establish themselves, they now fight to maintain creative freedom against mounting pressure for predictable commercial returns. At the opening of their show, British actress Jameela Jamil delivered a manifesto framing creativity as a sharp, unforgiving blade. The metaphor was deliberate. True innovation requires risk, and EGONlab wanted to emphasize their willingness to bleed for their vision.
Urban-punk tailoring and the aesthetics of metamorphosis
Their Fall 2026 collection returned to the urban-punk tailoring that first defined EGONlab. However, Nompeix and Glémarec layered their signatures with experimental flourishes. Feathers appeared prominently, sometimes covering entire faces to suggest incomplete metamorphoses. The opening look paired a sleeveless, feather-heavy top with sharply tailored trousers.
Their approach to structure remained consistent. Oversized suits featured wide shoulders and cinched waists, accentuated by side-buttoning details. The designers incorporated doubled layers throughout the lineup. Black trousers revealed plaid duplicates underneath when the waistbands were peeled back. Suits cut from creased fabric opened to reveal contrasting colors underneath when the wearer moved. Denim received asymmetric folded panels.
The color palette leaned heavily into deep blacks and featured crinkled textures, dry wools, and fluid jerseys. Trompe l’oeil effects, asymmetry, and raw edges reinforced the collection’s transformation theme. Patchwork and hybrid construction techniques blurred the boundaries between couture craftsmanship and ready-to-wear production.
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Collaborations as cultural and political statements
EGONlab incorporated two collaborations into the collection. They partnered with Converse to create an embroidered version of the Chuck Taylor. The second collaboration was with Tinder and was based on the idea of fostering connections during challenging times. This partnership included t-shirts, sweatshirts, and a couture feather piece crafted by Maison Février. Thirty percent of the proceeds from the Tinder collaboration will benefit Safe Place, a feminist organization.
The designers also presented about six looks from their growing women’s line. The collection ranged from masculine-inspired shirts paired with tailored cargo pants to dramatic, draped column dresses that appeared to slide off the body. This evolution, rather than radical departure, was suggested by the inclusion.
While many fashion houses retreat into tried-and-true formulas during uncertain times, EGONlab chose to assert its creative identity. The question now is whether the industry will reward that courage or punish it.
