Vetements unveiled its Spring/Summer 2025 collection in a spectacle that fused nostalgia, celebrity power and urban grit. Held in the underground levels of the Montparnasse Tower in Paris, the show marked a significant moment for the label as it continues to evolve under the creative direction of Guram Gvasalia.
The venue set the tone for the evening, with a mountain of discarded clothing near the entrance serving as a stark reminder of fashion’s ongoing struggle with waste and overconsumption. This installation, reminiscent of a messy birthday cake, contrasted sharply with the sleek, modern surroundings of the venue.
As the show began, rapper Travis Scott appeared as the opening act, showing off his chiseled physique in a shiny black leather biker ensemble. This dramatic entrance was quickly followed by top model Gigi Hadid, who wore a minidress made entirely of DHL-branded packing tape – a clever nod to Vetements’ history of subverting corporate logos and reimagining everyday items as high fashion.
The collection itself was a journey through Vetements’ greatest hits, with updated versions of iconic pieces from the brand’s decade-long history. Oversized hoodies with exaggerated shoulders, deconstructed suiting and layered lingerie looks all made appearances, speaking to the label’s reputation for pushing boundaries and challenging traditional silhouettes.
One of the most talked about moments of the show was the appearance of a visibly pregnant Carmen Kass, who confidently walked the runway in a bra and slip combination. This bold choice underscored Vetements’ commitment to diversity and body positivity, while also generating significant buzz on social media platforms.
The celebrity factor extended beyond the runway, with a star-studded front row that included singer J Balvin, Olympic diver Tom Daley and pop star Camila Cabello – the latter almost unrecognizable in a black balaclava with sparkling earrings. Their presence underscored Vetements’ growing influence in the worlds of music, sports and entertainment.
While some critics saw the collection as a retreat to familiar territory, the presentation itself was undeniably captivating. Models descended escalators and navigated a gauntlet of surveillance cameras, many ominously flashing red, creating a sense of urgency and paranoia that resonated with the brand’s rebellious ethos.
The show’s finale featured a dramatic bridal look, with the model repeatedly looking over her shoulder before lifting her skirt and dashing off the runway – a theatrical touch that left the audience both amused and intrigued.
Despite the familiar elements, Vetements Spring/Summer 2025 managed to feel fresh with its clever styling and the energy of its diverse cast. The collection successfully balanced commercialism with the brand’s signature edge, offering pieces that will appeal to longtime fans while potentially attracting new admirers.
As Vetements enters its second decade, this show demonstrated that the brand remains committed to its core values of disruption and innovation. By revisiting and reimagining its own history, Vetements has created a collection that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking – a difficult balance that few labels can achieve.
©Photo: Vetements
