Donatella Versace’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection harkened back to the brand’s unapologetic roots, sewing archival codes into modern silhouettes as swirling rumors of the house’s potential sale added urgency to every stitch. Set in a cavernous Milan tram depot, the show fused Versace‘s signature audacity with sly nods to its founder’s legacy-proving that even under uncertainty, the brand’s DNA remains untouchable.
The opener set the tone: quilted Versace Home bedding transformed into a portrait-collared puffer jacket, tutu and corseted ball gown that traded fragility for defiance. Sculpted from domestic textiles, these pieces challenged expectations of luxury while telegraphing comfort without compromise. Leather pants cut for power walks, not parties, were paired with dagger-heeled boots, while roomy blazers – slung over ruffled bodysuits or chainmail slips – balanced sensuality with authority.
For men, Versace delivered sharpness without shrillness. Sweeping coats in wool and leather anchored looks, while clear-sequined jeans and glazed shirts whispered extravagance. Gold hardware punctuated collars and cuffs, echoing Gianni’s 1991 studded motifs, but the real statement was in the details: offset shoulders borrowed from the 1997 collections and V-shaped pockets that nodded to archival precision.
Donatella mined her brother’s 1990s playbook without falling into nostalgia. A gold chainmail dress from Fall 1998 Atelier Couture shimmered next to fringed dresses updated with unraveled metallic thread, an intentional fraying that felt fresh. Skater skirts, now stiffened into architectural shapes, and crystal-embroidered hemlines showed how Versace’s past could move forward. Even the heated front-row benches, draped in rococo blankets, winked at Gianni’s lavish interiors.
The silence backstage spoke volumes. With Capri Holdings reportedly on the verge of being sold, the show became a silent manifesto for Donatella’s irreplaceable role. Her Instagram statement – “I am not following any rules. Only the rules of the Versace DNA” – read like a clarion call. The collection’s boldest strokes, like crystal-studded 3D-printed tops or rhinestone-encrusted denim, argued that innovation thrives when rooted in heritage.
Two metallic thread dresses – one gold, one silver – stole the show. Their fluid drape and deliberate unraveling embodied Versace’s duality: meticulous craftsmanship meets raw edge. With Sunday’s Oscars looming, their red-carpet potential felt inevitable, a reminder that even in flux, the house still dresses victory.
©Photo: Versace
