Donatella Versace presented a Fall/Winter 2024 collection brimming with ideas and brimming with product, but not all of it resonated with a cohesive brand message.
Versace aimed to capture the essence of a “rebel with a kind heart,” evident in the gender-fluid punk rock looks featuring red and black checked outerwear, spiky hair, and grungy mohair sweaters. These elements paid homage to the “playfully rebellious” style of Barry Keoghan.
Power tailoring remained a top priority, continuing the path set by the designer a year ago at her pre-Oscars show in Los Angeles. The collection offered numerous iterations, including military-inspired maxi coats, boucle suits, and sleek, hourglass silhouettes, alongside casual equestrian-inspired pieces.
Versace revisited the long line, button-front jackets the designer famously created for Prince, pairing them with tapered trousers. Donatella spoke fondly of her late friend, calling him “a shy genius” whose music “came from his soul.”
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A refreshing highlight was the down-to-earth take on the female power jacket, seen paired with comfortable stirrup leggings, as modeled by Donatella herself. This look offered a practical and contemporary approach to power dressing.
The collection built upon the foundation set by the L.A. collection, featuring sleek and sophisticated corset minidresses with spiraling draped skirts in leather or crystal mesh. However, the overall presentation lacked focus and could have benefited from greater refinement.
The venue itself, adorned with black shag carpet and a white Escher staircase, served as a symbolic representation of the brand’s current state of flux, as its parent company Capri awaits acquisition by Tapestry. Despite the uncertainty, Donatella Versace delivered a confident and powerful show, solidifying her place as a leading voice in the fashion industry.
Read more: Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2024 – Milan Fashion Week
©Photo: Versace
