Dario Vitale’s abrupt departure from Versace, after just one collection, comes as Prada tightens control over the brand’s next creative chapter. Confirmed days after the acquisition, his exit fuels speculation about who will shape Versace’s future and how Prada intends to reposition one of fashion’s most iconic houses.
His departure became official on Thursday when Lorenzo Bertelli, the newly appointed executive chairman of Versace, confirmed what fashion insiders had been whispering about since Milan Fashion Week. Vitale will leave on December 12th, barely nine months after succeeding Donatella Versace. She had helmed the creative vision for nearly three decades before transitioning to chief brand ambassador.
How Prada’s acquisition reshaped the creative landscape
The Prada Group finalized its purchase of Versace from Capri Holdings just two days before announcing Vitale’s departure. The €1.25 billion deal brought Versace back under Italian ownership and placed Lorenzo Bertelli, the son of Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, at the helm.
The timing raises questions that Bertelli’s diplomatic statement doesn’t answer. He thanked Vitale for his “outstanding contribution to the development of the brand’s creative strategy during this transition period.” The phrase “transition period” suggests that Vitale was always meant to be temporary.
According to market sources who spoke with WWD, Vitale knew about Prada’s acquisition plans before leaving Miu Miu in January. He spent 15 years at the Prada-owned brand, rising from fashion designer to head of ready-to-wear. Despite challenging market conditions, his work at Miu Miu drove 93% retail growth.
Retail praise that couldn’t secure his role
Vitale’s September debut collection translated Gianni Versace’s DNA into everyday fashion. He presented T-shirts, sweaters, blousons, vests, and jeans in vibrant colors. The silhouettes remained unapologetically sexy, yet aimed for wearability rather than red-carpet drama.
Retailers responded positively to the retro-tinged approach. However, positive reviews could not overcome the calculations that the Prada Group applied when determining Versace’s future direction.
The creative team will continue working under the supervision of CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger. Gintzburger will stay on, providing operational continuity while Prada searches for Vitale’s replacement. The February 2026 fall/winter runway show remains unconfirmed.
Inside the search for Versace’s next Creative director
Speculation about potential successors has already begun circulating through fashion circles. Two names carry particular weight, given their connections to both Prada and Versace:
Anthony Vaccarello currently directs Saint Laurent, but he has deep Versace roots. In 2015, Donatella Versace personally selected him to lead the Versus line, making him a protégé. Since 2016, he has built Saint Laurent’s commercial success, yet parent company Kering is facing major restructuring under new CEO Luca de Meo. De Meo is reviewing every brand under his oversight, which could create an opening for Vaccarello’s departure.
Pieter Mulier is another intriguing possibility. The Alaïa creative director has close ties with Raf Simons, who co-directs Prada with Miuccia Prada. Mulier has revitalized Alaïa since 2021, though parent company Richemont would likely resist losing him.
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The first outsider and the shortest tenure in Versace history
Vitale made history when he became the first Creative director outside the Versace family to lead the brand. Gianni Versace founded the brand, and then Donatella took over after her brother’s murder in 1997. She shaped Versace’s aesthetic for 28 years before stepping aside in April.
Her departure as creative director coincided with the announcement of the Prada acquisition, suggesting that the sale terms may have required her to leave day-to-day design. She remains visible as chief brand ambassador, preserving the family’s connection to the brand while allowing for operational restructuring.
Vitale’s brief tenure reflects the compressed timelines now typical when luxury conglomerates acquire struggling brands. Capri Holdings failed to unlock Versace’s potential, leading to the Prada sale. Prada hopes to breathe new life into a label that once defined Italian glamour but lost its footing.
What Lorenzo Bertelli’s new position really signals
Bertelli’s appointment as executive chairman signals Prada’s hands-on approach. Though the role isn’t creative, it places him at the center of strategic decisions, including the design of Versace’s next chapter.
His mission is to align Versace with the Prada Group’s broader vision. The luxury market is polarized between quiet luxury and spectacular glamour, leaving Versace in need of clearer positioning. Bertelli must decide if Versace should embrace its maximalist heritage or transition to a more minimalist aesthetic.
Together, the departure and acquisition represent what one French publication called a “véritable reset stratégique” — a true strategic reset. Prada isn’t merely adding Versace to its portfolio. The group is fundamentally reconsidering what Versace should be.
A strategic reset that has the industry watching closely
Versace has stated that it will announce its new creative direction “in due course.” This vague timeline leaves the fashion world guessing while giving Prada time to court their chosen designer.
The next creative director will inherit both opportunity and pressure. It’s an opportunity because Versace remains one of fashion’s most recognized names. There is pressure because two acquisitions in less than a decade suggest that the brand needs more than incremental change.
Vitale designed one collection. His successor must design Versace’s future. Whether that involves Vaccarello, Mulier, or someone else entirely will determine whether Prada’s expensive bet pays off or if Versace continues its pattern of unfulfilled promise.