Schiaparelli‘s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection marked a departure from the house’s usual theatricality. Creative director Daniel Roseberry traded the grand Palais for a dimly lit, chandelier-adorned basement, channeling a “Surrealist hyper-sensualized ballet” vibe.
Inspired by the elegance of the 1950s and the legacy of founder Elsa Schiaparelli, Roseberry crafted a collection that balanced a timeless quality with a touch of subversion. Think structured capes with phoenix wing-shaped shoulders, alongside hourglass silhouettes reminiscent of the iconic Shocking perfume bottle.
Luxurious fabrics like hammered gold brass and nude mesh were adorned with intricate details – 3D thorn embroidery, layered hand-cut ribbons, and explosions of stiff tulle. The amber lighting cast a warm glow on these meticulously crafted pieces, further highlighting their artistry.
A break from the usual breakneck pace of fashion shows, models glided at a leisurely pace, allowing guests like Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner to fully appreciate the intricate details. Roseberry aimed for a “calm and unaffected” mood, letting the clothes speak for themselves rather than chasing viral moments.
While Roseberry embraced the house’s surreal legacy with elements like high-heeled shoe-shaped cups on a bustier dress, there was also a focus on celebrating the female form. The collection offered a range of silhouettes, from body-conscious sheaths to voluminous tulle skirts, catering to a diverse range of tastes.
Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture was a confident step forward. Roseberry showcased the brand’s versatility and the exceptional craftsmanship of the ateliers. This collection is a testament to the enduring power of timeless beauty, presented with a touch of Schiaparelli’s signature dark whimsy.
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©Photo: Schiaparelli
