London-based designer Robert Wun unveiled his Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection during Paris Fashion Week, marking the 10th anniversary of his label. This was a profound introspection. Wun used the collection as a platform to explore weighty questions about time’s relentless march and its impact on creativity and human existence.
The central theme revolved around the passage of time, translated into a narrative through the garments themselves. The opening gown, a majestic black creation with a matching crystal-embroidered veil, embodied “the first falling of snow,” symbolizing winter’s reflective nature. This theme of impermanence continued with a white trailing coat resembling fragmented porcelain, painstakingly pieced back together, from which butterfly appliqués seemed to emerge – a potential symbol of hope or beauty rising from decay.
Wun’s masterful use of color and embellishment further emphasized his message. A sinuous black mermaid gown, adorned with a bodice blooming with delicate pink cherry blossoms, represented the fleeting beauty of spring. The blossoms, drawing inspiration from Chinese philosophy, embodied the notion that impermanence fuels appreciation for beauty. This theme of decay was further explored with visible burns adorning the hems of a vibrant yellow silk ensemble. These weren’t random imperfections; Wun explained the meticulous process of replicating and emphasizing the burn marks, creating a deliberate visual language of erosion and passage.
The collection culminated in a powerful finale, a quartet of looks portraying a progressive stripping away, both physical and spiritual. The “flesh” was a showstopping blood-red sheath, entirely encrusted with vertically sewn bugle beads that mimicked muscles. Its sheer weight, a staggering 40 kilos, rendered it impossible to hang traditionally. This fascination with the human form continued with the “bones,” a skintight black jumpsuit topped with a chilling half-skeleton mannequin.
Yet, amidst the exploration of decay and impermanence, Wun offered a glimmer of hope. The final look, a vision of a trailing veiled gown shimmering with countless multicolored crystals, embodied the soul. This ethereal creation, bathed in the show’s dim lighting, offered a powerful counterpoint – the soul, unlike the physical body, endures, returning to the universe.
Read more: Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Robert Wun
