In a surprising twist, Jerry Lorenzo’s latest Fear of God collection draws inspiration from an unlikely source: the off-the-rack corporate uniforms of the late 1980s and early ’90s. Lorenzo’s keen eye spotted the allure in these oft-maligned suits, particularly the ensemble worn by Linda Kozlowski’s character in the 1986 film “Crocodile Dundee.”
This “Brooks Brothers emotion” catalyzed Lorenzo to apply his signature Fear of God filter to the era’s democratic corporate attire. The result is a collection that pulls the source material’s silhouettes into even more exaggerated versions of the originals. Jacket skirts are lowered, waistlines hoisted up, and leg widths broadened to accentuate the break.
Pinstripes, a staple of corporate wear, are blown up to dramatic proportions and applied to full suits and shirting looks. In a first for Lorenzo, ties make an appearance – mostly square-tipped and straight, crafted from the same fabrics as the ensembles. The designer aimed to incorporate neckwear in a way that felt casual rather than stuffy.
Elsewhere, Lorenzo turns the original styling inside out, drawing jackets closed and tucking them into finely constructed, high-waisted pleated trousers to create a sophisticated jumpsuit effect. Fabrics, sourced with the help of the brand’s new Milan office, range from purposefully flat wools to richly textured leathers and robust meltons.
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©Photo: Fear of God
